The site of an ancient Roman Road, described as the most important in Scottish history, has been discovered in a garden near Stirling. Dating back almost 2000 years, the cobbled road was built by the Roman armies of General Julius Agricola in the 1st century AD and would have connected to a ford that crossed the River Forth. It was uncovered during a dig in the garden of a cottage, located a few miles to the west of Stirling city centre and next to the 18th century Old Drip Bridge.
The road and the crossing would have been used again by the Romans in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD as legions launched fresh invasions of Scotland under the emperors Antonine and Severan. Many of the key historical figures of Scottish and British history also used the road for military campaigns given its strategic importance for crossing the Forth and reaching the Highlands, as well as its proximity to Stirling – Scotland’s former capital city.
The most important road in Scottish history
Stirling Council Archaeologist Murray Cook, who led the dig, said: “This crossing would have been used by the Romans, the Picts, William the Conqueror, Oliver Cromwell and every King and Queen of Scotland, including MacBeth, Kenneth McAlpin and Robert the Bruce – but not Bonnie Prince Charlie who we know crossed the river at a ford at Frew to the west of Stirling. It is the most important road in Scottish history so it’s an amazing discovery. To literally walk where Wallace and Bruce went, let alone the Romans, Picts and Vikings is astonishing. It has also never been clear before this find where this road ran.To the south the road heads towards Falkirk and would eventually take you to England. To the north, it would take you a crossing over the Tay and the edge of the Roman Empire.”
The dig took place in the garden of the Old Inn Cottage, a former Drover Inn built in the 17th century. This year marks the 900th anniversary of Stirling as a Royal Burgh, founded by King David I in 1124.
Main photo: Dominic Farrugia, Jennifer Strachan and Peter Dun who were all volunteers on the dig.
Campbeltown was once considered the whisky capital of the world in the Victorian era when it was home to more than 30 distilleries. Now there are just three but there is a whisky renaissance going on there – three more distilleries are planned for the area, two already with planning permission. Campbeltown may be the smallest of Scotland’s five distinctive malt-producing regions, but it is big with whisky history, and a bright future, as Judy Vickers explains.
For Scotch whisky fans there isn’t any time of year which isn’t the right time for a wee dram. But there is something about January – from Hogmanay to Burns Night – which makes this month particularly suitable for a tot of the water of life. Whisky has been made in Scotland since at least the 15th century but it was a mainly undercover illicit operation until the 1820s when changes in the excise law saw legal distilleries spring up and boom all around Scotland. And nowhere did they boom more than in Campbeltown. The small town lies near the bottom of the Kintyre peninsula and these days is considered a fairly remote, tucked-away part of the Scottish mainland. But back in the 19thcentury, the town’s natural assets helped it to become home to more than 30 distilleries and saw it earn the nickname “Whiskyopolis”, the whisky capital of the world, with the highest income per head in the country.
Now there are just three distilleries left; Springbank, Glengyle and Glen Scotia. But with three more distilleries planned, and rumours of others to come, it looks as if the fortunes are on the up for the only town in Scotland considered a whisky-producing area in its own right.
Spiritville
Campbeltown in 1890s. Photo: Iain J McAlister.
Back in the days of steamers and before railways and roads became the main form of transport, Campbeltown’s natural harbour gave it a key advantage in the emerging industry. Iain McAlister, Glen Scotia distillery manager and master distiller, explains: “Campbeltown has the most fantastic harbour in the world, so goods – barley, casks, equipment – could be taken in and out easily.” That harbour also gave the town good links to markets – Glasgow was within easy reach as was Ireland, and the US and Canada, where many Scots had settled after being forced from their land during the Clearances and were keen to have a taste of their homeland. “There were 30-plus distilleries which came and went. It was the renewables of its day – local entrepreneurs were looking to invest in these new distilleries, it took off here like nowhere else and that really continued until the original owners started to die off,” says Iain.
Campbeltown harbour in the 1890s – the barrels on the quay could contain whisky or herring! Photo: Iain J McAlister.
In 1887 Campbeltown had 21 distilleries and was producing more than nine million litres of spirit a year in town of just under 2000 people – no wonder its other nickname was Spiritville. The town’s skyline was spiked with distillery chimneys and its loch harbour filled with boats, serving both the whisky and the then booming herring industry.
But just a few decades later, that picture had changed. The First World War, followed by Prohibition in the United States, then the Depression of the 1930s, saw the whisky industry decimated in the town. Communication methods had been changing over the years too – Speyside was now more accessible and its lighter whiskies were becoming more fashionable and seen as better for blending.“It had run its course. Distilleries were being bought just to close them down to eliminate competition as they were seen as inefficient and by the time the Second World War came there were just three distilleries and there was no recovery until today,” says Iain.
Campbeltown’s distinctive whiskies
The Witchburn Distillery planned for Campbeltown. Photo: Brave New Spirits.
The three distilleries which survive today, only two of the same which were left in the 1930s, have had chequered histories to reach the 21st century. Iain’s distillery, Glen Scotia, was founded in 1832 by Stewart Galbraith. The Galbraith’s held it during the 19th century, but then it was bought by Duncan MacCallum who had an expansive portfolio of distilleries but who tragically drowned himself in 1930, supposedly because he was swindled out of a large amount of money in a dodgy business deal. Iain, however, has his doubts, as MacCallum still left £200,000, a substantial fortune in those days. The distillery changed hands several times and was in the doldrums when it was bought in 1996 by its current owners the Loch Lomond Group. Since then, its fortunes have been reversed and it now produces 700,000 litres a year – 5,000 casks – and has won numerous awards including the top prize for its single malt in the 13 to 15 year old category at the Scottish Whisky Awards
The other two distilleries are both owned by the Mitchell family who have been bound up with whisky-making in Campbeltown since the 17th century. Springbank was founded 1828 on the site of Archibald Mitchell’s illicit still who was already a partner at Rieclachan Distillery, one of the now vanished distilleries of the town. It might have survived to the present day, but Springbank has had a stormy history, literally and metaphorically. In 1883 when wild weather caused the distillery chimneys to collapse and when it was forced to close between 1926 and 1936 due to the effects of Prohibition and again in 1979, reopening in 1989.
Glengyle was begun by William Mitchell, part of the same family, in 1872, when he broke away from his brother John, the Springbank owner, but was hit badly by the First World War and closed in 1925. It was given a new lease of life in 2000 when it was bought back by the Mitchell family and reopened, producing its first whisky again in 2014 under the name Kilkerran. Now those three will be joined by three more distilleries, including Witchburn, which aims to be one of the most environmentally friendly distilleries; Machrihanish Distillery which hopes to become Campbeltown’s first farm-to-bottle distillery and the Dal Riata distillery, which will be located overlooking Campbeltown Loch. And unlike many other industries, Iain says the three established distilleries will welcome their new counterparts, helping to create a whisky renaissance in the town. Iain says: “There has sometimes been an air of sadness to what Campbeltown had been but I think it’s being appreciated again.” And he says there is an appreciation of Campbeltown’s distinctive whiskies, which he says have a saltiness, an oiliness and are a little bit “funky” which set them aside from any other Scottish whiskies. “It’s a very complex whisky with something you can’t quite put your finger on. It’s not a straightforward whisky.”
An artist’s impression of the inside of the new Witchburn Distillery. Photo: Witchburn Distillery.
Did you know?
The whisky regions of Scotland
Campbeltown is one of five “whisky regions” in Scotland, each producing their own distinctive tipples.
Speyside: Probably the most famous whisky-producing area in Scotland which is home to more than half the country’s distilleries. Glenlivet and Glenfiddich, two of the most famous and best-selling single malts, are Speysides. The area around the River Spey in the north-east of the country produces fruity light whisky.
Islay: Islay is known as the Queen of the Hebrides and has eight distilleries, producing whiskies such as Laphroaig – said to be King Charles’ favourite – and Ardbeg. The island is known for its peaty, smoky whiskies.
Lowland: Known for its lighter, sweeter, smooth taste, famous whiskies from this region, in the south of the country, include Bladnoch near Wigtown, and Glenkinchie in East Lothian
Highland: This huge area produces a huge range of tastes, including fruity, salty and peaty. Famous brands include Glenmorangie and Ardmore. This region also incorporates the other whisky-producing islands such as Skye (Talisker) and Orkney (Highland Park).
By: Judy Vickers.
Main photo: Campbeltown harbour. Photo: Springbank Distillery.
The Galloway and Southern Ayrshire (GSA) Biosphere, Scotland’s first UNESCO Biosphere, is celebrating the news that National Geographic Traveller (UK) has named it as the only Scottish destination in the prestigious global Cool List for 2024. The “editors’ selection of global destinations set to make the news over the next 12 months” identifies the top places around world “where tourism benefits communities and the environment as much as the visitors and locals themselves.”
Cultural significance
GSA Cornish Cairn.
Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere’s listing celebrates the reserve’s natural heritage, its UNESCO designation and its recently extended boundary, which recognises the site’s cultural significance. It was revealed earlier this year that the site has now almost doubled in size from more than 5,200 km² to almost 9,800 km² – incorporating Alloway (the birthplace of Scotland’s national bard Robert Burns), the Rhins of Galloway (Scotland’s most southernly point) and the marine environment out to 12 nautical miles offshore. The National Geographic Traveller listing also reflects the key role the Biosphere played in the development of the world’s first UNESCO trail, a gamechanger for Scottish tourism.
Welcoming the news from National Geographic Traveller UK on behalf of the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Partnership Board, Chair Melanie Allen, said: “We are thrilled that this year’s National Geographic Traveller (UK) Cool List recognises the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere for developing tourism as a force for good. This is fantastic recognition of southwest Scotland as an outstanding visitor destination and highlights the importance of the Biosphere’s collaborative approach – working with Biosphere Certified Businesses, strategic leaders and partners – to build a secure and greener economic future for Scotland and the UK. Thanks to this ethos visitors can truly enjoy Galloway and Southern Ayrshire safe in the knowledge that their visit is as good for our communities and environment, as it is for their soul. With its awe-inspiring natural landscapes, fascinating heritage, and culture, we already knew the Biosphere was ‘cool’ and now its official!”
Herding Blackface sheep.
Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere Director, Ed Forrest said: “It is crucial that we all work together to find new ways of tackling the biggest interconnected challenges of our time. UNESCO Biospheres provide a blueprint for living in cultures all around the world, and the proof of their value is already being realised, as people begin to realise that sustainability in living, learning and leisure has to become our societal norm. So, it is brilliant to see National Geographic Traveller has included the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere among the top places around the world where visitors can do this.”
Stunning scenery
The Galloway Hills.
Congratulating the Biosphere, VisitScotland Destination Development Director Gordon Smith said: “The Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere is an area of outstanding significance for its geological and scientific interest, as well as its stunning scenery. Part of Scotland’s UNESCO Trail, the Biosphere has a key role in contributing to make Scotland a world-leading responsible tourism destination and it is fantastic to see the Biosphere included in National Geographic’s Cool List for 2024. This accolade will help shine the spotlight on the awe-inspiring beauty and diversity of the region as well as the invaluable work between the Biosphere and the local community.”
A bird paradise.
Daniel Steel, Chief Executive of the Ayrshire and Arran Destination Alliance said: “There is a huge amount to be excited about in the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere, so it’s no surprise to hear it has been named on the National Geographic Traveller Cool List. This incredible accolade, and the UNESCO Biosphere’s recently boundary extension, reflects Ayrshire’s cultural significance and provides a fantastic platform to encourage visitors to enjoy our national assets in a sustainable way.”
UNESCO’s Man and the Biosphere programme promotes a long-lasting connection between people and nature through over 740 designated sites across the world, including Yellowstone (USA), Niagara Escarpment (Canada), the Everglades (USA) and the Black Forest (Germany). National governments nominate Biospheres for UNESCO accreditation, which is then awarded by the Director-General of UNESCO following the decisions of the MAB international Coordinating Council. UNESCO Biosphere are models of sustainable development demonstrating how living in harmony with our natural environment is good for people, the economy and nature.
For more information about the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire UNESCO Biosphere, visit: www.gsabiosphere.org.uk
Did you know?
Galloway & Southern Ayrshire (GSA) UNESCO Biosphere was designated in 2012, recognising the region’s world class heritage and natural environments.
One of a network of more than 740 UNESCO Biospheres in 134 countries, Galloway and Southern Ayrshire was the first such designation in Scotland.
The GSA UNESCO Biosphere now covers almost 9,800 km² of southwest Scotland and is home to 110,000 people.
Its original geographical boundary was based on catchments of the rivers flowing out of the Galloway Hills.
The Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere launched the innovative Blackface Wool Project, supported by the Blackface Breeders’ Association and British Wool, to promote the versatility of local wool (an integral part of the local heritage and community) and its diverse potential as a sustainable resource.
The GSA Biosphere is very much a part of Scotland’s rural southwest, where the land and its uses remain integral to everyday life. Beyond its central Core Area the Biosphere is home to historic industries such as farming, fishing and forestry; a dynamic variety of micro-businesses and SMEs; and communities that range in size from tiny hamlets to small towns.
The Biosphere and its partners are working together to promote the idea that ecologically sound activity can take place alongside conservation and research. Education, employment, tourism and enterprise can all be sustainable, and through a cooperative approach, they can achieve a balanced relationship between people and nature.
Right across Galloway and Southern Ayrshire, the Biosphere celebrates positive cultural values and identity, to help people learn more about where they live and better understand the heritage they all share.
The original biosphere boundary followed the rivers that flow out of the Galloway Hills through forests and farmland, historic villages and towns, all the way to a ruggedly scenic coast.
The Brigadoon Executive bands coordinator has over the past few months worked tirelessly with the Pipe Bands NSW Branch to organise the Inaugural Brigadoon/ PBNSW solo competition at the 2024 Bundanoon Highland Gathering. The Bundanoon Highland Gathering Inc. (www.brigadoon.org.au) in consultation with the Pipe Bands New South Wales Association will initiate their inaugural Solo Pipe Band competition on 6th April 2024 at Bundanoon, NSW.
It will be incorporated into the already famous Scottish Gathering, Brigadoon, which has an annual attendance of over 10,000 visitors. In 2024 they are provisionally looking at over 25 pipe bands (up to 600+ performers) participating at the gathering over and above up to 200 competitors in the solo competition, this would see a significant increase in attendance numbers and with that brings increased visitation to the region.
Entries are open and if you’re interested in participating in the solo competition please contact:
Steven Patterson
E [email protected]
Ph +612 9736 2022
Address:
Pipe Bands NSW
PO Box 3695
Rhodes, NSW
2138
After a lengthy search for the perfect site, Caithness Broch Project announced that they have identified an area north of Latheron known as Flygla as the preferred site for the “Big Broch Build”, with residents in the Latheron, Lybster and Clyth community council area now being asked for their views on a proposal to build a replica Iron Age Broch in their district. Brochs are stone built, circular towers dating back over two thousand years. They are unique to Scotland and the greatest number of broch sites are in Caithness. The idea to build the first new stone tower since the Iron Age as a visitor attraction and archaeological and educational research centre is the vision of local charity, The Caithness Broch Project.
Unique Scottish structures
The charity’s chairman, Robin Herrick, said: “We have found the owner and local representatives to be very supportive of our outline plans, and we look forward to consulting with the local residents and stakeholders in the coming weeks to ensure their insights and concerns are integral to the project’s next steps.”
The charity believes that re-creating history through its ”Big Broch Build” will show people what these unique Scottish structures would have looked like and experience how they were built. The Broch Project wants to use Iron Age construction techniques as much as possible. The charity believes the replica broch will also encourage more visitors to come to the area to visit the site, spend more time and money in the village and help create more jobs in the community.
Chairman of Latheron, Lybster and Clyth Community Council, Alan Tanner has welcomed the proposal. He said: “This ambitious project is spurred on by great enthusiasm and determination on behalf of the Broch Project committee and deserves all our support as a community.” The charity is embarking on a community consultation exercise to hear the views of local residents, businesses and landowners. Community consultation runs until mid-January.
From a £50 loan and a small Scottish village bakery, to an iconic multinational household brand, the Walker’s Shortbread family business continues to grow as they celebrate 125 years of their original recipe. In the last financial year, the business recorded a 16% rise in turnover as export revenues boosted by almost 10%. Australia has played a significant role in the growth of the business since its inception in the market in 1972, with Australians consuming the most shortbread per capita outside of Scotland, three times as much per capita than the US. The Scottish Banner spoke to Jim Walker CBE, Director and third generation of Walker’s Shortbread about the iconic product, brand and his love of Speyside.
In 1898 your grandfather Joseph Walker opened the doors to his very first bakery at just aged 21 with a loan of £50 and the ambition to bake “The World’s Finest Shortbread” using just four ingredients. Do you ever wonder what he might think of the Walker’s global brand today? And how does it feel to be a part of such a legacy?
JW: My Grandfather was a very down to earth man, and he would likely have said, “Well done and now let’s get back to work!” It is a great honour to be a part of this business today and see what we have made of it so far. I have also made many friends around the world because of our products and it has been a wonderful business to be a part of.
Shortbread dates back well into Scottish history, with even Mary Queen of Scots being a fan. What is it about shortbread do you think people love so much the world over?
JW: I think it is the simplicity of shortbread that makes it so loved. If you make it well and keep to the true recipe people will love it. It is a fantastic treat and filled with history and a beautiful taste. Shortbread can be enjoyed at any time of day and at any occasion.
Walker’s Shortbread is an iconic Scottish brand. How does it feel for you to know your family business has not only been such an international success story but that it also represents Scottish quality on the world stage?
JW: It is both wonderful and also a big responsibility. We are determined to keep our independence and keeping the product tasting as good as it has been each and every time. We are one of the largest Scottish ambient food exporters and are a brand now recognised across the world. By doing a simple thing well, being consistent and ensuring the product tastes the same every time in every country is what we strive for and achieve.
Working at the Walker’s factory in the 1980s.
Many generations of locals have worked for Walker’s creating a special and unique Highland community. Walker’s is one of the largest employers in the local area. How does it make you feel to have such a positive impact on the local economy over several generations?
JW: It makes us very proud, and we are determined to support the local community in every way. We are so dependent on the local community for a supply of first-class people who give a fair day’s work and for many it is more than a job it is a way of life. Often two or three members of the same family will work at the company, and we try and work with our workers to be flexible as the locals are so valuable to us. I think there is an inter-dependency between ourselves and the local community, and we both greatly benefit from each other. We have wonderful staff, and we strive to create stable employment for generations of workers.
Jim Walker driving a Walker’s van.
Walker’s is today the largest family-owned biscuit manufacturer in the UK. How much of the company’s success do you put down to being family owned and operated?
JW: A lot of our success comes down to us being a family owned and operated business. Much of our longevity is from being family owned, if we were a normal corporation, it can be all too easy to sell. For us we are just custodians of this generation, and each generation is responsible to run the business and hand it over in a better condition in which they got it. So, we don’t care how much we sell this year, or next year, we care desperately however how much we will be selling in twenty years’ time. A huge order that is a one off is not that attractive to us, but an order that will run for years is the type of business we like and always look for.
The red tartan of Walker’s packaging is so very iconic. How important is it for Walker’s to include it and be known as a true Scottish company regardless of where their customers may be?
JW: Tartan for us is extremely important it is one of several things that defines us and our identity. We use tartan heavily and we always will. We are proud of our use of tartan and certainly not ashamed to incorporate it. Our products lend themselves well to a good strong tartan, partly because the product is indigenous to Scotland but also because we are a proud Scottish business. Tartan compliments our brand, however anyone who thinks they can make shortbread and put some tartan on the box and it will sell is wrong. It will always be the product itself that will bring success in the long term.
Sir Jim Walker.
Walker’s Shortbread calls Aberlour on the banks of the River Spey in Speyside home. For those who may not have yet visited this area can you tell us about this beautiful part of Scotland?
JW: We are in the epicentre of the Scotch whisky industry. Four of the world’s top five selling whiskies are within five miles of our factory. My office looks on to Macallan Distillery and many of the world’s best distilleries are just nearby. Someone once asked me if Aberlour was like heaven as you have a shortbread factory at one end and whisky distillery at the other, and in between you can fish in the River Spey for next to nothing. It really is a beautiful part of the country with lovely valleys and the stunning River Spey, which is extremely clean and why we have so many distilleries there. The river water has a peaty flavour which is an extremely soft water. If you like the outdoors and nature, you will love coming to Speyside as we have many varieties of birds and wildlife and walking tracks. It really is a true nature paradise.
In 2022 you were awarded a knighthood from His Majesty King Charles III. Just how does that make you feel to have been honoured in such a way, and as part of a multigenerational family business do you somewhat share that honour with your family members past and present?
JW: Absolutely, I am very honoured and proud to have received it. I received this because our company has been successful exporting and for employing so many people in our local area. I do recognise I received this because of the efforts of my grandfather, my father and uncle (James and Joseph) and my brother, my sister and myself. Sadly, my brother Joe passed away in October 2021 and my sister Marjorie, who so loved Speyside, has only very recently passed away. The award really was because of the efforts of so many people and I am so very fortunate it was presented to me.
Last year was a special year, with so many piping and drumming events around the world back to full strength, with musicians travelling across the world to perform, compete and see friends again. Looking ahead to 2024, we are sure that this year there will be more of the same!
The first piping and drumming event of the new year happens in the Southern Hemisphere, with the Waipu Highland Games, which encompasses the New Zealand Open Solo Piping Championships taking place on 1st January.
The National Piping Centre’s home city of Glasgow comes alive at the darkest time of year, as the UK’s premier celebration of Celtic music, Celtic Connections presents a full 17-day programme from 18th January – 4th February celebrating 31 years of world music. Piping and drumming features across the programme, in so many forms from emerging talent on the Danny Kyle stage through to headlining traditional music concerts from Breabach, Project SMOK, Finlay MacDonald with Jose Manuel Tejedor and a concert by 2023 world champions People’s Ford Boghall and Bathgate Pipe Band and the National Youth Pipe Band of Scotland. Head over to the website now find out more – www.celticconnections.com.
As well as Celtic Connections, solo pipers are heading to Kansas City once again this January as Winter Storm, organized by Midwest Highland Arts Fund, returns from 11th – 14th January, after a successful return in 2023. The Competition League for Amateur Solo Pipers also returns in January, with an in-person event in Glasgow on 13th January. This league has an overall and online-only titles so you can compete as an amateur solo player from anywhere in the world. The latest online event saw competitors from Hong Kong to Hawai’i join the event! If you are an amateur player and would like to find out more go to www.theclasp.co.uk.
Southern Hemisphere
The New Zealand Pipe Band Championships.
With summer in full swing in the Southern Hemisphere there is a plethora of pipe band events, solo competitions and more. After the Waipu Highland Games on 1st January, comes Turakina Highland Games on the 27th January. From the 10th – 14th January, the Royal New Zealand Pipe Band Association will host its summer school in Christchurch for young musicians. This Summer School is the perfect opportunity to learn from world class tutors, and it showcases some of the best talent New Zealand has to offer.
On 17th February the National Piping Centre Junior Piping Championship returns, one of a host of fantastic contest for young pipers aged Under 18 across the country every year. It aims to encourage all young players to compete, with chanter competitions through to Piobaireachd events.
In Australia, Ballarat Grammar School in Victoria will host its annual pipe band contest on 2nd March and Haileybury Pipe Band Contest takes place on 17th March. Back over the Tasman Sea, the New Zealand Pipe Band Championships will take place in Tāmaki Makaurau Auckland with over 50 bands registered to take part in a huge two days of contest on 15th – 16th March.
On 23rd March, the adult solo piping season kicks off in Scotland with the Duncan Johnstone Memorial Competition which is held at The National Piping Centre and managed by the Competing Pipers’ Association for B and C graded pipers. On 24th March the Victorian Pipe Band Championships take place at the Melbourne Highland Games and Celtic Festival and the Hastings Highland Games in NZ takes place over Easter Weekend, with a huge focus on solo piping with their Commun na Piobaireachd Clasp, Gold and Silver Medals and Premier light music competitions taking place.
The bi-annual Australian Pipe Band Championship will return om 13th April 2024 in Maryborough, Victoria, with bands from across the country as well as the Australian Drum Major Contest taking place. Also in April will be the inaugural World Amateur Champion of Champion Solo Piping Competition, which will feature the 10 top amateur solo players from around the world being invited to take part. This event is designed to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the launch of The Competition League for Amateur Solo Pipers (CLASP), and will be online and available to watch worldwide. Find out more at www.theclas.co.uk
World Pipe Band Championships
Piping Live!
As we move into the Scottish summer (keeping everything crossed for some sunshine!) the piping season begins in earnest with a huge range of Highland Games across the country, all of which feature some kind of piping with pipe bands, solo piping and ceilidhs across Scotland. August 2nd -3rd sees the 75th Glengarry Highland Games, which includes the North American Pipe Band Championships. This year’s World Pipe Band Championships has been announced as the 16th and 17th August. Keep up with all the pipe band news at www.rspba.org
Piping Live! returns in full force to the streets of Glasgow in the run up to the World’s once again as Glasgow hosts the world’s biggest week of piping! This year, we are celebrating the 21st edition of our festival running from 10th – 18th August, which attracts performers and audiences from across the world. In 2023, we welcomed performers from Estonia, Ireland, Brittany and Northumbria performing on their own styles of bagpipes, as well as Scottish Pipe Bands from Malaysia, USA and Canada and from across Scotland. We can’t wait for the this year’s festival – keep up with what’s happening and register for email updates at www.pipinglive.co.uk
At the end of August, the piping world turns its focus to top level solo competition, with the Argyllshire Gathering taking place in Oban on 21st and 22nd August, and the Northern Meeting in Inverness happening on 29th – 30th August. These see the world’s best solo performers gather to compete for the most prestigious solo piping prizes, as well as a chance to qualify for the Glenfiddich Piping Championship.
The Glenfiddich Piping Championship takes place at the end of October each year, and in 2024 will celebrate its 51st event on Saturday 26th October. 10 competitors will gather at Blair Castle to compete in Piobaireachd and March, Strathspey and Reel disciplines to be crowned champion. As it is a special year there will be a host of extra special moments planned. Tickets to join us in person at Blair Castle or to watch through the livestream will go on sale around mid-July through the National Piping Centre website. Over this same weekend, the New Zealand Silver Chanter competition takes place on 26th and 27th October for this 48th event.
Massed bands at the Glengarry Highland Games, Canada. Photo: Glengarry Highland Games.
But October isn’t all about solo piping, as on Saturday 19th October, the World Solo Drumming Championship takes place, here in Glasgow, with the best drummers gathering to compete of several rounds to be crowned the best. In a year of firsts for Boghall and Bathgate, who won their first World Pipe Band Championship, their Lead Drummer Kerr McQuillan won his first World Solo Drumming title, edging out the champion of the previous 10 years, Steven McWhirter. This will be a hotly contested event in 2024, that’s for sure! The Glenfiddich Piping Championship marks the end of the 2024 season, only for the 2025 season to start the very next weekend in London with the Scottish Piping Society of London’s annual competition, which celebrates its 86th year in 2024.
Also, in the USA and Canada there are a number of piping events through November, with the An Crios Gréine – Sun Belt Invitational Solo Piping Competition taking place in Florida and the George Sherriff Memorial Invitational for amateur players taking place in Hamilton Ontario. Dates for these events will be confirmed later this year. So, if you are travelling this year, come and hear piping in Scotland – or look out for it around the world!
You can find out more about all The National Piping Centre’s projects at www.thepipingcentre.co.uk or get the latest news and results from the piping world at www.bagpipe.news which will give you details of events happening across the globe.
Text courtesy of The National Piping Centre, Glasgow. Main image:The World Pipe Band Championships. Photo: Glasgow Life.
There are many reasons to make Scotland the place to be in 2024; whether it’s a newly discovered 5,000-year-old tomb in Orkney, or Shetland preparing for its first orbital rocket launch, Scotland offers wow-moments galore. Visitors in 2024 are guaranteed to make unforgettable memories while exploring the country’s vibrant cities and stunning landscapes on new trails, or discovering exciting new attractions. The selection below is only a handful of Scotland’s upcoming openings to look forward to in the year ahead, as the destination is ever-changing and ever-growing to provide the best visitor experience possible.
Perth Museum, Perth, Spring 2024
Perth Museum. Photo: Culture Perth and Kinross.
The new Perth Museum will open its doors in spring, Easter weekend of 2024 after a £26.5 million redevelopment project. The world-class cultural and heritage attraction will highlight the fascinating objects and stories that put Perth and Kinross at the centre of Scotland’s story. The new museum will showcase various objects of interest, including the 3,000-year-old Carpow Logboat and the Stone of Destiny (one of Scotland’s most significant historical objects, an ancient symbol of Scotland’s monarchy that was used to crown Scottish Kings, returning to Perthshire for the first time in over 700 years). Perth, one of Scotland’s eight cities, sits on the banks of the River Tay in the east of Scotland, just a short journey from Edinburgh or Glasgow. Perth is nestled between two sprawling public parks, and has elegant Georgian townhouses, cobbled streets and medieval spires. Explore the monuments, the art gallery and museum before discovering the glorious Perthshire countryside. When visiting Perth, look out for the colourful sculptures in the Hairy Highland Coo Trail, coming to local spaces in summer 2024.
Scottish Crannog Centre, Perthshire, Spring 2024
The Scottish Crannog Centre is currently building a new museum located at the site of Dalerb on the North side of Loch Tay in Perthshire which is set to open in spring 2024. A crannog is a house built over water, usually with a bridge or causeway joining them to the shore, and visitors can step inside one to discover unique insight into life in the Iron Age. The aim of The Scottish Crannog Centre at Dalerb is to be the most sustainable museum in Scotland. The new visitor centre will showcase internationally significant archaeological collections, an Iron Age-inspired village of craft and technology demonstrations, and the first of three expert-led, but community-built, crannogs.
Braemar Castle, Aberdeenshire, Spring 2024
Built by the Earl of Mar in 1628, Braemar Castle has been a hunting lodge, fortress, garrison and family home. An iconic 17th century landmark in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, Braemar Castle is currently undergoing a £1.6 million restoration programme to re-render the exterior which aims to be complete by spring 2024. The castle’s future rests with the small community of Braemar, and over the past ten years the village has been working to raise funds and gradually conserve and restore the castle to provide even better facilities for future visitors.
Craigievar Castle, Aberdeenshire, Spring 2024
An example of the best of Scottish Baronial architecture, Craigievar Castle fits naturally amongst the rolling hills of Aberdeenshire. The elegant pink tower of Craigievar Castle was completed in 1626 and is amongst the most loved in Scotland. The castle is currently undergoing a major conservation project to carry out essential maintenance work, including refreshing the lime wash that gives Craigievar its distinctive and beloved pink colour. Visitors will be treated to a grand reveal in spring 2024, when the new exterior is unveiled.
The 152nd Open at Royal Troon, Ayrshire, July 2024
Royal Troon’s Old Course was founded in 1878, expanded to eighteen-holes ten years later and re-designed by five-times Champion Golfer James Braid ahead of its first Open in 1923. It will host its 10th Open from 14 to 21 July 2024.
The Playbill FringeShip, Edinburgh, August 2024
The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is the largest arts festival in the world, including over 3,000 shows that span theatre, cabaret, and comedy shows. With visitors flocking to the city to experience the world-renowned festival, Playbill is launching the Playbill Fringeship, the official ‘Floatel’ of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Ambassador Cruise Line’s Ambition – a sustainable and modern cruise ship – will be docked for a week in Edinburgh’s buzzing port neighbourhood of Leith, from 8 – 15 August 2024, carrying up to 1,300 guests in cabins and suites.
Lost Shore Surf Resort, Edinburgh, September 2024
Lost Shore Surf Resort is coming to Edinburgh in September 2024, when it will proudly become Europe’s largest inland surfing destination. Capable of generating up to 1,000 waves per hour, the state-of-the-art surf lake will be set within a 60-acre country park and will offer unique accommodation in the form of premium pods and luxurious lodges, a food market, retail spaces, and a wellness spa.
High Praise for the Far North…
The Far North of Scotland has been named as one of Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel destinations for 2024. The region, which includes Caithness and Sutherland, is home to some of the country’s most beautiful and special habitats including The Flow Country; the most intact and extensive blanket bog system in the world. The travel publication highlights the increased recognition the region may enjoy as The Flow Country aims to achieve UNESCO World Heritage status. Lonely Planet describes 2024 as ’the perfect time to make a trip to the Far North of Scotland, exploring both its unsung boggy interior and a coastline of heartbreaking beauty’.
And the South…
The Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere, Scotland’s first UNESCO Biosphere, is celebrating the news that National Geographic Traveller (UK) has named it as one of the most exciting destinations for 2024 in its prestigious global Cool List. Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere’s listing celebrates the reserve’s natural heritage, its UNESCO designation and its recently extended boundary, which recognises the site’s cultural significance. It was revealed earlier this year that the site has now almost doubled in size from more than 5,200 km² to almost 9,800 km² – incorporating Alloway (the birthplace of Scotland’s national bard Robert Burns) and the Rhins of Galloway (Scotland’s most southernly point).
And the Scottish Islands…
The Scottish Islands have been chosen as a ‘Best Place to Go in 2024’ by US travel media company, Frommer’s. Frommer’s describes the Scottish Islands as a ‘breath of fresh air’ and ‘a world apart with more than a hint of magic to each of them’. With a shoutout to the white sandy beaches of Barra and Harris, the world’s finest whiskies from Islay’s distilleries, the dramatic sea stacks in Orkney and the wildlife in Shetland, their overview of this beautiful part of Scotland is just a glimpse into the many reasons why visitors should put the islands on their must-visit list.
Distillery news
From exciting new visitor attractions such as the first vertical distillery located in Edinburgh’s trendy neighbourhood of Leith; and the Gin Bothy Experience where Scottish bothy traditions and culture meet tasting and retail; to innovative ways to make whisky production more sustainable (cue the distillery that recycles its hot air to heat the local swimming pool), there are endless reasons to explore the world of whisky and gin in Scotland. Not least the number of new openings to look forward to in 2024.
Dunphail Distillery, Moray Speyside, Now Open
Opened in 2023, Dunphail is a resolutely traditional distillery, dedicated to crafting the finest whisky the way it used to be made. It has been constructed from a one-time farm steading and sits in the beautiful countryside of the Speyside region. Their exclusive distillery hand-fill is available for visitors wanting to bottle their own whisky straight from the cask.
Eden Mill Distillery, St Andrews, Summer 2024
After lying still for over 150 years, Eden Mill brings the art of distilling back to this historical area in the form of a new distillery experience and a range of premium single malt whiskies and gins. The front wall of the building will feature large glass windows providing beautiful views out over the estuary and the iconic St Andrews skyline. All their electricity will be 100% renewable, coming from either the solar farm belonging to the University of St Andrews or other renewable energy sources. Additionally, the CO₂ produced during the fermentation process will be captured for the University to use.
The Arches on East Market Street, in the heart of Scotland’s capital city, will soon be home to the highly anticipated Edinburgh Gin state-of-the-art Distillery and Visitor Experience. The opening will mark the relocation of their distilleries from Rutland Street and Leith, uniting the essence of the brand under one roof. The meticulously designed brand home promises immersive experiences that will transport visitors on a journey filled with wonder.
Rosebank Distillery, Falkirk, 2024
After 30 years of closure, Rosebank Distillery, once the beating heart of the Scottish town of Falkirk, restarted production in summer 2023. The ancient buildings have been tirelessly restored. Three gleaming copper stills now take centre-stage in a magnificent glass-fronted still house. In the middle, proudly connecting Rosebank’s past and future stands the towering 108ft distillery chimney stack, which has been a famous landmark in Falkirk for as long as anyone can recall. With the visitor centre set to open in 2024, whisky lovers can look forward to re-discovering the distillery during a range of tours and tastings.
closed his Port of Menteith restaurant, has given Nick and his wife Julia the opportunity to revamp the Cook School to the highest order. Fitted with the latest technology and cooking facilities, the Cook School now provides a more intimate setting with a maximum of 12 in each class.
Events
Treacherous Orchestra at the Old Fruitmarket. Photo: Gaelle Beri for Celtic Connections.
With atmospheric crowds, iconic venues and picture-perfect backdrops, Scotland plays host to world leading sporting events as well as music and cultural festivals. Edinburgh is the world’s leading festival city with amazing events taking place year-round, including the world-renowned Edinburgh Festival Fringe. In 2024, visitors can choose from small local events to large international crowds, see below to find out what’s in store.
Celtic Connections, Glasgow’s annual folk, roots and world music festival celebrates its connections to cultures across the globe. From 18 January to 4 February 2024, over 2,100 musicians from around the world bring the city to life for eighteen days. During this time, there are concerts, ceilidhs, talks, art exhibitions, workshops and free events for visitors and locals alike to enjoy.
Spectra Festival of Light, Aberdeen, February
Spectra, Scotland’s magical Festival of Light returns to Aberdeen from 8 – 11 February, shining a light on Scotland’s glorious Northeast for the tenth time. Each year, the festival brings a spectacular programme of works by some of the world’s leading visual artists, studios and companies to transform the Granite City with light, sound and eye-catching visual art.
World Athletics Championships, Glasgow, March 2024
Glasgow has a proven track record of hosting major sporting events and 2024 is no different! The World Athletics Indoor Championships will provide the city of Glasgow with three days of world class action from 1 – 3 March. There will be six sessions of sport filled with exciting competition in the Emirates Arena, with some of the best athletes in the world competing for prestigious World Indoor titles. Up to 650 competitors from more than 130 countries are expected to take part, competing in 26 events, 13 for men and 13 for women.
National Cyclo-cross Championships, Falkirk, January 2024
The 2024 National Cyclo-cross Championships will be held in Scotland for the very first time, in Falkirk’s Callendar Park. The championships will take place over the weekend of 13 –14 January. Home to the 14th century Callendar House, the park provides a stunning backdrop to the racing, with the challenging course quickly becoming a firm favourite of riders and spectators alike.
World Orienteering Championships, Edinburgh, July 2024
While often thought of as a countryside sport, from 12 – 16 July 2024 orienteering will take over Edinburgh, when the Sprint World Orienteering Championships visit Scotland’s capital city. Five days of racing – for everyone from elite athletes to complete beginners – will showcase orienteering and allow people of all abilities to enjoy a world-class sport in a world-class city.
Cullen Skink World Championships, Moray Speyside, March 2024
Cullen Skink is a thick Scottish soup traditionally made of smoked haddock, potatoes and onions and takes its name from the town of Cullen in Moray, on the northeast coast of Scotland. On Sunday 17 March 2024, the Cullen Skink World Championships will take place in the Cullen, hosting two events – the Traditional Cullen Skink competition and Cullen Skink with a Twist competition – and spectators are welcome at both. Judges will taste each competitor’s version in a blind tasting, with the contestant with the highest score being declared as the Cullen Skink World Champion.
Scotland on Two Wheels
There are many ways to explore Scotland, but cycling is one of the best. Cycling allows visitors to take their time and see more, relax and unwind, and be more eco-friendly all in one go. Visitors can choose to cycle one of Scotland’s amazing long distance cycle routes, such as the new Kirkpatrick C2C, South of Scotland’s Coast to Coast Cycling route from Stranraer on the west coast to Eyemouth on the east coast. This cycle route celebrates Scotland’s rich history of innovation and the South’s key role in the creation of the bicycle with its 250 miles of uninterrupted joy. In early 2024, the full cycle route will be launched with signposts along the way.
In August 2023, Glasgow was host to the UCI Cycling World Championships. It was the single biggest cycling event in history, bringing together for the first time 13 existing UCI World Championships into one mega event. To capitalise on the legacy of the event, five new cycling routes have been mapped out by Sustrans Scotland, with two in the Scottish Borders, one in Dumfries and Galloway, one in Glasgow, and one in Stirling. Find out more about these fantastic routes here to begin mapping out a cycling holiday in Scotland. In May 2024, Fort William in the Scottish Highlands will feature as one of 15 race weekends in the 2024 UCI Mountain Bike World Series.
For those looking for some culture with their active adventure, head to Orkney and cycle the new Hoy on Hoy route, a 31km road cycle inspired by six-time Olympic Champion, Sir Chris Hoy, which takes in the Scapa Flow Museum, ancient archeology and some of Orkney’s best scenery.
Anniversaries
Stirling. Photo: VisitScotland.
Scotland’s history stretches back thousands and thousands of years and fascinating stories of the past await both in the country’s vibrant cities and most remote islands. A number of big anniversaries in 2024 offer the opportunity for visitors to join local communities in the celebrations.
Stirling Celebrates 900 Years as a Burgh
Stirling, a Royal Burgh founded by King David I in 1124, is approaching its 900th anniversary, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Scotland. Nowhere else in Europe can one traverse from a historic battlefield to a Celtic fort, a medieval palace, and the site of a Jacobite siege, all within a 15-minute walk. Visitors are encouraged to join locals for a year-long celebration of everything that makes Scotland truly unique, from the story of Bonnie Prince Charlie to the significance of tartan and the mysteries of Bloody Scotland.
Robert the Bruce’s 750th Anniversary
Robert the Bruce is a ruler which the history books remember; many regard him as being Scotland’s most successful monarch. With the 750th anniversary of his birth coming up on 11 July 2024 there has never been a better time to follow in the footsteps of Scotland’s most famous king by exploring the Robert the Bruce Trail in the South of Scotland or other locations thought to be connected to him such as Scone Palace and Dunfermline Abbey. On the day itself, Maybole in Ayrshire near where Robert the Bruce is said to have been born will host the Robert the Bruce Heritage Day with medieval fun for the whole family.
HMS Unicorn’s 200th Anniversary
First launched in 1824, HMS Unicorn – which can be visited in Dundee – is the third oldest ship afloat in the world and the oldest ship in Scotland. In celebration of her 200th anniversary, no less than two special presents have been commissioned for the museum ship: A new musical piece about her history will be performed on board as part of a series of events during the anniversary year. And a newly designed statue, a 3 metre all-steel artwork of a unicorn rearing on its hind legs, is set to form the centrepiece of a new garden for HMS Unicorn.
The Kelpies Turn 10
Standing at 100ft tall and weighing more than 300 tonnes each, the magical Kelpies, located within Falkirk’s The Helix Park, are the largest equine sculptures in the world. The stunning sculptures, created by artist Andy Scott 10 years ago, have become iconic on the landscape after being modelled on real-life icons of times gone by — Clydesdale horses Duke and Baron. During a free event on 27 April visitors can enjoy street theatre, storytellers and artists who will create a vibrant and colourful scene to experience alongside the spectacular sculptures, culminating in a big family ceilidh, pipe band demonstrations, not to mention a specially invited guestlist of Clydesdale horses to mark the breed’s significant contribution to Scotland’s industrial heritage and inspiration for Andy Scott’s masterpiece. The day of celebration will be followed by a concert in the evening.
It is with immense pride and enthusiasm that the Scottish Dance Society announce important news about the June 1, 2024 Bellingham Scottish Gathering. The full-scale Highland Games moves to beautiful Blaine, Washington nestled adjacent to the Peace Arch and the international border crossing into Canada. Marine Park is festival center, offering waterside and panoramic views of the Salish Sea, Semiahmoo Resort, Mount Baker and White Rock, British Columbia.
A celebration of Scotland’s culture
The Peace Arch.
First and foremost; the Bellingham Scottish Gathering is a celebration of Scotland’s culture. Blaine’s ‘By the Sea’ theme is the focus of special events planned for the festival. The working harbors of Scotland are mirrored in the city’s active fishing and boating communities. The committee is delighted to provide exciting news to the Highland dancing community.
For the first time, the Bellingham Open Highland Dancing Championship is a feature at the 2024 Highland Games. Newly sanctioned by the Royal Scottish Official Board of Highland Dancing; we look forward to welcoming competitors to the prestigious competition in a location sure to attract international visitors. Save the date and check back for updates on events, hotel partners, recreation opportunities and more.
The dawning of the 20th century was an auspicious time for Scottish automakers. Argyll, Arrol-Johnston and Halleys all got their starts at this time. On 30th December 1899, Norman Osborne Fulton and Thomas Blackwood Murray, both formerly of Arrol-Johnston, established perhaps the most famous Scottish automotive firm, the Albion Motor Car Company Ltd. Murray’s father John Murray provided financial backing and suggested the Albion name.
With its first factory situated at 169 Finnieston Street, Glasgow, Albion started out with seven employees. The company began automobile production in 1900 with its first car, an 8-horsepower dogcart constructed of varnished wood and fitted with solid tyres. Albion became a private concern in 1902, and by 1904 had moved to a large plant in South Street at Scotstoun, Glasgow. Albion Motors manufactured both cars and trucks; as early as 1902 the company produced a half-ton van.
Sure as the Sunrise
Pictured at a steam rally in northwest England in the 1970s is this 1927 Albion flatbed. Photo: Ed Dingley, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported licence.
Investor J. F. Henderson came on board in 1907 as joint managing director. Leading up to the First World War, Albion produced several car models: the 8, 12, 16, 24/30, and 15. Some of Albion’s early cars had a price tag of £280, and were advertised as ‘suitable for the country house’. Variations of Albion cars included taxis and ambulances. The firm moved further into commercial vehicle production, and from 1909 began concentrating on trucks and buses. The early buses were built on Albion A10 lorry chassis.
Albion became a public company in 1914, and in 1915 ceased passenger car manufacture. During the First World War Albion focused on the production of military vehicles. The firm produced a large number of three-ton trucks for the War Office, to be deployed in France. Many of these were converted to charabancs after the war. The Viking 28, announced in 1927, was the first Albion forward-control bus, the driver being positioned beside the engine. Albion’s first double-decker bus, the Venturer 51-seater, was introduced in 1932.
An Albion Model 557 on the road. Photo: Jon’s pics, Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic licence.
In 1930-31 the company’s name was changed to Albion Motors, and the firm began to use diesel engines in its buses in 1933. In 1935 Albion procured Halleys Industrial Motors, based at Yoker, Glasgow. Halleys, which was regarded as one of the Big 10 motor vehicle makers, had produced commercial vehicles since 1906. These included a fire tender, flatbed, tipper and a coach. Halleys also made engines and pumps. During World War Two, Albion assisted the war effort by using its facilities to produce the Enfield No 2 Mk I revolver.
From 1944 the company manufactured its own 4- and 6-cylinder diesel engines, and following the war Albion commenced production of modernised buses with under-floor engines. Albion lorries, which became renowned for their toughness and reliability, proved to be stiff competition for Foden trucks all the way from World War One to the 1950s. Albion reliability was expressed through its slogan, ‘Sure as the Sunrise’, the latter depicted pictorially in its logo by the image of a rising sun.
Tough as the Scots who make them
This preserved Western Welsh bus 7 is a 1960 Albion Nimbus single-decker. Photo: Graham Mitchell, Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic licence.
Albion merged with Leyland Motors in 1951, with Leyland reducing the size of the Albion range. The final double-decker bus made by Albion was the 1961 Lowlander (marketed under the Leyland name in England). With the founding of the British Leyland Motor Corporation in 1968, production of the Albion Viking buses and the Chieftain, Clydesdale and Reiver trucks continued. Albion took over the Coventry Ordnance Works in 1969, and produced complete trucks and buses in its Scotstoun factory until 1972.
Partial construction or assembly of trucks and buses by Albion continued until 1980, when Leyland finally scrapped the Albion name. Albion vehicles were a once familiar (and a now fondly remembered) sight on Scottish, English and Welsh roads. Albion exported its lorries and buses to South Africa, East Africa, Australia, India and elsewhere in Asia. The vehicles were exemplars of Scottish craftsmanship and engineering at points around the globe. As a 1960s Albion advert read, ‘Albion . . . tough as the Scots who make them.’
Besides the Viking, Albion buses included the Valiant, Victor, Valkyrie and many others. Beyond those aforementioned, amongst Albion trucks were the Clansman, Claymore, CX22S Heavy Artillery Tractor, the WD66 6×6 truck, and the WD.CX24 Tank Transporter. Albion lorry variants included fire tenders, tankers, refuse trucks, wreckers and cement mixers. A 1993 buyout brought Albion back into Scottish hands for several years. Headquartered in Scotstoun, Albion Automotive is now a subsidiary of American Axle & Manufacturing, which took over the firm in 1998. Albion produces and supplies automotive component systems such as crankshafts, axles and chassis systems.
A preserved Highland AL41, an Albion Lowlander/Northern Counties. Photo: Arriva436, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported licence.
Though Albion trucks and buses might not be seen regularly on Scottish highways, quite a number of the vehicles have been restored, maintained and preserved in both private hands and in museums. The Biggar Albion Foundation, a Scottish charity in Lanarkshire, runs the Albion Club, the Albion Archive, and the Biggar Rally. The foundation also operates the Albion Museum in North Back Road, which has a collection of historic Albion vehicles. Members of the Albion Club receive the quarterly publication, The Albion Magazine, which has incorporated the Albion Vehicle Preservation Trust Newsletter.
The Albion Museum is normally open on weekends 10 to 2, from April to October. The Albion Vehicle Preservation Trust, a Scottish charity established in 1967, was formed to acquire and preserve a 1950 Albion Valiant coach. The trust also brought a 1967 Viking coach into the fold in 1991. In cooperation with the Albion Club, the trust maintains the Register of Preserved Albions, with the number of vehicles recorded so far across the globe at over 1,000.
The Arrol-Johnston company’s origins go back to Glasgow locomotive engineer George Johnston, who, after studying various continental European cars, decided that he could best their designs with his own. For the project, Johnston teamed up with his cousin Norman Fulton, and Thomas Murray (both of whom would soon move on to form Albion Motors in 1899). In 1895 Johnston and Sir William Arrol, one of the engineers of the Forth Bridge, formed the Mo-Car Syndicate Ltd. Johnston worked as managing director, while Arrol, who provided financial backing, was company chairman. The firm built the first British production car, the Dogcart, introduced in 1898. The Dogcart was made in a factory in Yates Street, Camlachie, Glasgow. Financial restructuring in 1903 resulted in the departure of Johnston, who went on to establish the ill-fated Johnston Car Company (later called the All British Car Company), in Bridgeton. Arrol-Johnston grew to become Britain’s fifth largest automobile producer. Aster merged with Arrol-Johnston in 1927, which resulted in the Arrol-Aster marque. The company restored the Blue Bird, Sir Malcolm Campbell’s famous land speed record car, in 1928. However, Arrol-Aster went into receivership, and ceased production in 1931.
Galloway cars
Established in 1920, Galloway Motors Ltd was a subsidiary of Arrol-Johnston. First based at Tongland near Kirkcudbright, the company moved to Heathhall, Dumfries in 1923. Galloway was staffed and run chiefly by women. In fact, one of its advertising slogans was ‘a car made by ladies for others of their sex’. Dorothée Pullinger, daughter of Arrol-Johnston manager T. C. Pullinger, was director and manager of Galloway. Part of Dorothée’s plan with Galloway was to provide employment for local women. She also raced cars, and took the cup in the 1924 Scottish Six Day Car Trials. Galloway made one model (rather than a whole range) at a time, and the cars were known for their simplicity and durability. The Tongland factory produced a few hundred Galloway autos before the move to Dumfries. By the time the firm had ceased operations in 1928, it had manufactured about 4,000 Galloway cars in total.
Text by: Eric Bryan.
Main photo: An example of the 1911 Albion 24/30. Photo: Stephen Velden, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic licence.
This year marks 100 years since the death of John Maclean, “the most dangerous man in Britain” and “Lenin’s man in Scotland”. A Glaswegian born of Highland parents, he was the leading light in the Red Clydeside era. He died at just aged 44 from pneumonia after he’d given his only overcoat to a destitute man. His funeral was one of the largest ever in Glasgow and he was considered both a political pariah and champion of the Scottish working class, as Judy Vickers explains.
On a chilly December day in Glasgow 100 years ago, thousands of people joined a four-mile funeral procession from Eglington Toll to Eastwood Cemetery. Thousands more lined the streets to watch the mourners pass in what is still believed to be the biggest turnout for a funeral ever in the city. The crowds were there to say farewell to John MacLean, dubbed by British Military Intelligence as “the most dangerous man in Britain” but a much-loved hero to the ordinary folk of the city and beyond for his tireless work campaigning for workers’ rights during the famous Red Clydeside era of the early 20th century.
Zeal for reform and revolution
The Glasgow rent strike in 1915. Photo: Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.
MacLean had been a Communist and a fierce believer in education. Hundreds passed through his evening classes, which at one point he was holding every night of the week on top of his day job, learning about industrial history and economics with Marx as the main textbook. He was opposed to the First World War and the British Empire, views which led him to be imprisoned numerous times, spells which sapped his health, speeding his early death at the age of just 44. He was said to be an electrifying speaker, his 75-minute speech at his trial in 1918 is legendary, and his summer holidays were spent touring Scotland, from Lewis to Hawick, giving impassioned speeches on street corners and outside factories.
His zeal for reform and revolution sprang from his early life, which was a perfect illustration of so many woes of the day. Both his parents had been victims of the 19th Clearances in Scotland, where landlords in rural areas had removed tenants – sometimes forcibly – from their homes and the land they had worked, often for generations, to fill them with more profitable and less labour-intensive sheep. His mother, Anne, came from the village of Corpach in the Highlands, his father Daniel from the Isle of Mull. A potter, Daniel briefly worked in Bo’ness before taking up work at a pottery in Pollockshaws, then on the outskirts of Glasgow, where the family settled.
Tales of injustice
Tales of injustice were part of his childhood, but his upbringing was typical of many at that time – three of his siblings died in infancy and his father died when he was just nine from silicosis (“potter’s lung”) from his working conditions. His brother contracted TB and eventually emigrated to South Africa, joining the many swathes who left Scotland to seek better lives during the early 20th century. Daniel and Anne were far from the only ones to descend on Glasgow during the 19th and early 20th centuries; the city expanded rapidly as casualties of the Clearances and Irish immigration swelled numbers. Housing became difficult to come by and was often poor and unsanitary when it could be found, with landlords dividing tenements into ever-more squalid homes.
After his father’s death, John worked several part-time jobs in order to continue his education and qualified as a teacher, gaining an MA from the University of Glasgow. He taught in schools in south Glasgow, but his real passions were revealed after the school gates closed – teaching in evening classes to workers, joining and helping to organise left-wing and Marxist groups, writing pamphlets and supporting workers to form trade unions, and fight for better wages and conditions. This was a time of unrest in Scotland. The landmark Singer sewing machine factory strike in 1911 was broken by the authorities but this only intensified workers’ efforts rather than quash them. But it was MacLean’s opposition to the First World War, which broke out in 1914, which led to his more serious clashes with the authorities, including several periods in prison and the loss of his teaching job.
Rent Strike Poster in 1915, Glasgow. Photo: Glasgow Labor Party Housing Association, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.
A 1915 strike at munitions factory Weirs of Cathcart – an unofficial strike as the Defence of the Realm Act had made such industrial action illegal and which was led by shop stewards who were former pupils of MacLean’s – failed but helped to hike tensions. When rents were increased, MacLean helped organise a rent strike by the women of Govan and enlisted the support of the men in the shipyards and factories. As the agitation spread across the city, MacLean was arrested and charged with making statements likely to prejudice recruiting to the wartime military.
His penalty was a short imprisonment, but it also cost him his job at Lorne Street Primary School. In the November of that year, as he worked his notice on his job, 18 men were called to court for refusing to pay their increased rents. MacLean was carried shoulder-high by the crowd to the court where he addressed 10,000 people and called for a general strike if the rent rises went ahead. The alarmed authorities pressed through a Rent Restriction Act.
Famous pioneer of working-class education
Maclean’s trial in 1918. Photo: Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.
In 1916 he was arrested again and sentenced to three years in prison with hard labour after being found guilty of sedition although he was released after 15 months following mass demonstrations, including a protest by thousands when Prime Minister Lloyd George visited Glasgow. In 1918, following the Russian Revolution of the previous year, MacLean was named the Bolshevik Consul for Scotland by Lenin. Such an appointment was never likely to endear him to the British authorities, which were increasingly alarmed at the prospect of revolt and MacLean was arrested again.
At his trial in May of that year, he gave a 75-minute impassioned speech in defence of his views, coining the term “underclass” and declaring: “I consider capitalism the most infamous, bloody and evil system that mankind has ever witnessed. I wish no harm to any human being, but I, as one man, am going to exercise my freedom of speech. No human being on the face of the earth, no government is going to take from me my right to speak, my right to protest against wrong, my right to do everything that is for the benefit of mankind. I am not here, then, as the accused; I am here as the accuser of capitalism dripping with blood from head to foot,” he told the court. He was sentenced to five years and incarcerated in Peterhead Prison in Aberdeenshire, where he was force fed by tube through hunger strikes, severely affected his health. More mass protests saw him released in December 1918, following the November Armistice, and thousands turned out to welcome him home to Glasgow.
Crowds gather as John MacLean’s coffin is removed from his Pollokshaws home. Photo: Public domain – Wikimedia Commons.
He continued to campaign, but his health deteriorated, and he collapsed while giving a speech in Glasgow in November 1923 – he had given his overcoat away to a destitute Jamaican man. He had to be carried off the open-air platform and died on November 30th from double pneumonia.
The colourful era of the Red Clydesiders became an iconic part of Scotland’s political history but MacLean, one of its leading lights, is less remembered. He was, however, commemorated with a stamp issued by the Soviet Union in 1979 and with a 6ft cairn of granite near his birthplace, which was unveiled in 1973, 50 years after his death. The inscription on it describes him as a “famous pioneer of working-class education” and at the unveiling ceremony poet Hugh MacDiarmid described him as “next to Burns, the greatest ever Scot”.
Main photo: John MacLean in 1918. Photo: Hulton Archive, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.
Two leading branches of the Clan Campbell have been found to be unrelated to each other in research carried out by Alasdair Macdonald and Graham Holton at the University of Strathclyde. The genealogists at the Strathclyde Institute for Genealogical Studies (SIGS) have identified the genetic profile of the Campbells of Glenorchy, a family descended from Sir Duncan Campbell, 2nd Lord of Glenorchy, who died at the Battle of Flodden in 1513. The research used DNA evidence to conclude that the family dates back to the 13th century and is a separate line to the Campbells of Argyll, whose descent is from the first Lord Campbell, also Sir Duncan Campbell, who died in 1453. The Campbells have one of the largest number of cadet families, descended from the sons of clan chiefs, of any clan in Scotland.
The study is ongoing, and is likely to take some time to develop solid conclusions on the earlier history of the Glenorchy lineage, but the researchers have proposed several possibilities. The study used the Y chromosome, which can only be passed directly down the male line from father to son. Over the last 18 months, testing of several people with four distinct lineages, all descended from the second Duncan Campbell of Glenorchy, has revealed that they are defined by a genetic marker called R-Y33315. This included two lineages that share Sir Duncan Campbell, 1st Baronet (c.1550 – 1631) as their common earliest ancestor and a further two with documented descents from Archibald Campbell, 1st of Glenlyon (c1490 – 1552), who was the younger brother of Sir Colin Campbell, 3rd of Glenorchy (d 1523).
Two major families named Campbell are not genealogically related
Alasdair Macdonald said: “Dating of marker R-Y33315 suggests that the common ancestor of those who carry the marker was born around 1500. Another, smaller branch, defined by the marker R-Y130955, and also carrying the name Campbell, probably branched off a little earlier, with these two branches having a common ancestor defined by the marker R-BY23069 around 1150. The Campbells of Glenorchy and the Campbells of Argyll share a marker called R-L1065, but the common ancestor lived around the 3rd century. To all intents and purposes, these two major families named Campbell are not genealogically related but it is not yet certain why the Campbells of Glenorchy carry a different genetic marker, and so have a different male-line ancestry, from the Campbells of Argyll. An ancestor of the Campbells of Glenorchy may have adopted the name Campbell out of loyalty in the thirteenth century, but how did one or perhaps more members of this family come to be accepted as sons of Duncan Campbell, the first Lord Campbell?”
Graham Holton said: “It could be that this acceptance happened due to illegitimacy but this might be too simplistic, as the Campbell branch which carries the R-Y 130955 marker shared the same progenitor as the Glenorchys. This line traces back to Kenmore on Loch Fyne but may have moved there earlier from Perthshire. The common ancestor between this branch and the Glenorchys was a man who lived around 1150. This date may be firmed up by further testing of documented descendants, but it is clear that there was a major family named Campbell, genetically different to the Campbells of Argyll, in existence from the earliest days of fixed surnames. The maternal grandmother of the first Lord Campbell was Mariota, the heiress of John of Glenorchy. It’s also possible that he was a Glenorchy Campbell and that a male relative of John of Glenorchy was fostered. Many questions currently remain unanswered but further targeted testing of well-documented male line descendants may provide some answers.”
Anyone who may be able to assist the research project by having a documented descent, or by commenting on the current findings, is invited to contact Graham Holton or Alasdair Macdonald at SIGS. Funding of test kits was provided by the University of Strathclyde, the Clan Campbell DNA Project hosted at FamilyTreeDNA.com and private individuals. An article detailing the initial findings is to be published shortly in West Highland Notes & Queries.
If you have a long documented descent from one of these lines, please contact Graham S Holton and/or Alasdair F Macdonald at the following addresses: [email protected] or [email protected].
Cathedrals in medieval times were more than just places of worship; they were seats of power and their bishops and clerics were major players in society. They generally held great riches, not least in the form of land. Glasgow Cathedral owned a large swathe of countryside to the north-east of the city. Its senior clerics had a residence called Lochwood, on the shores of the Bishop Loch. They would ride out there for a few days rest and perhaps some fishing or hunting. Or it might be used for meetings on cathedral business. Cathedral lands were used to generate income. Employees managed the lands, farmed them, extracted minerals or did whatever they needed to ensure an income that would keep the cathedral functioning.
Secular ownership
Remarkably, in Provan Hall, a building from that era survives in Glasgow. There was probably a structure there as early as the 13th century; a roof-beam in the current building has been dated to then. However, it dates from rather later, and the veteran roof-beam is an early example of salvage and reuse. Provan Hall and its lands were in the possession of the Prebendary of Barlanark, which held a seat on the chapter of Glasgow Cathedral.
William Turnbull, who later became Bishop of Glasgow, was Prebend from 1440 and it’s thought possible that he started the building of the current Provan Hall, which would have been the base of farming operations. Other sources suggest that the building may date from the 16th century. After the Reformation the building went into secular ownership, first with the Baillie family and then the Hamiltons. In its early days, James IV is said to have spent a night there. So is his granddaughter, Mary Queen of Scots. Of course, there are few buildings of the right age, and some that aren’t, where she isn’t said to have slept. Baillie was an advisor to Mary, so perhaps the story isn’t too far-fetched.
The City of Glasgow purchased Provan Hall in 1677 from Sir Robert Hamilton (whose family crest is still visible above the gateway that leads into the courtyard) but sold it again in 1788 to Dr John Buchanan, something of a mystery figure, who may have made his fortune on the Jamaican plantations. As such, today we’d regard his money as somewhat tainted. The house passed through a succession of owners, including in the 1840s one Reston Mathers who is remembered as a celebrated breeder of Scotland’s national horse, the Clydesdale.
The last of the Mathers family left the building to their housekeeper Mary Holmes. She, along with Dreda Boyd, a local author and historian, raised funds to preserve the building when it was threatened by subsidence from coal mining and quarrying. Mary lived in the house until the 1950s, after having passed it to the National Trust for Scotland (NTS) in 1938. The NTS worked in partnership with the city authorities in Glasgow to present the building to the public. So, in a way, the city got back the building it had owned for a century many years earlier.
RMS Titanic
A succession of caretakers and custodians looked after Provan Hall, beginning with Mary Holmes herself. In the 1950s, Harold Bride took over. You may have heard the name, especially if you are interested in the tragic RMS Titanic. Bride had been the wireless operator on the ship. It’s been suggested that without the new invention of wireless radio, and Bride operating the system, there might have been no survivors of the Titanic. He served in the Royal Navy during the First World War and then moved to Scotland to work as a pharmaceutical representative and spent the rest of his life here. Sadly, his tenure as live-in caretaker didn’t last long as he died in April 1956. What a thrill it must have been to have been shown round Provan Hall by one of the heroes of the Titanic tragedy!
By the 1950s and 1960s, Provan Hall was set in an urban green space, Auchinlea Park, and was being surrounded by development as the housing estate of Easterhouse took shape. The main building has been much altered over the years but still forms one side of a courtyard entered by the impressive gateway. The building opposite probably dates from the 18th century. The fourth side of the courtyard opens onto the gardens. Glasgow City Council recently refurbished the buildings and gardens, and they now look tremendous. Day-to-day running is in the hands of the Provan Hall Community Management Trust who have a team of volunteers to look after visitors while the building is open to the public (usually Thursday to Sunday). There are displays in the original building; the kitchens are especially impressive, and I especially like how they have devoted the ground-floor space in the tower as a place for quiet reflection. The other building houses a shop and visitor centre, which also informs the public about the nearby Seven Lochs Wetland Park.
Provan Hall is close to another, very different, kind of attraction, The Fort Retail Park. While this sprawling facility is much less lovely than Provan Hall, it does at least mean that there are frequent buses from the city centre, and plenty of food and coffee venues once you have visited the house. Provan Hall is quite possibly Glasgow’s undiscovered gem. Hop on a bus to The Fort and find out for yourself.
There’s a new Highland Gathering in Tasmania and yes, it’s being held in the central highlands of Tasmania where it should be. Many of the early Scots who came to Tasmania in the 1800’s gravitated to the Central Highlands because it reminded them of home. There was a soft launch earlier this year and it proved so successful that it’s now going to be an annual event held each year on the last weekend of February. The concept for a Scots/Celtic gathering in the Highlands of Tasmania came about when three MacGregors of ‘good repute’ got together over dinner to discuss ideas on how they could get kinfolk back into the highlands to recognise and acknowledge the input early Scottish immigrants (and possibly some Irish and Scottish convicts) had in the formation of Tasmania.
James Johns, Frank McGregor and Charles Wooley.
These three likeminded Highlanders who share a passion for music, haggis and a wee drop of that pure and distinctive amber liquid, whisky, agreed that a highland festival was the best solution to replace the annual Richmond Highland Gathering which has sadly folded. When we say MacGregors of good repute, it is tongue in cheek because anyone with a knowledge of Scottish clan history is well aware that Clan Gregor were known as a fierce and warlike clan. However, these three MacGregors who all happen to be members of the Clan Gregor Society will welcome you to the highlands with open arms. James and Andrea Johns are the owners of Miena’s Great Lake Hotel and are the generous hosts of the festival. Charles Wooley is a veteran print and TV journalist best known for his role with 60 Minutes Australia and Frank McGregor is the High Commissioner for Clan Gregor Australia and the Tasmanian Honorary Consul for the United Kingdom.
Slainte
Then with a clink of glasses and a resounding toast of “Slainte” from these three gentlemen, an idea was born. Did we mention music? There will be music all weekend from Friday night through to Sunday by musicians from Tasmania and interstate. The Tasmanian Highlands Gathering committee is also delighted to announce that a huge drawcard for people who appreciate great musicians will be excited to know that renowned Scottish accordion player and piper David Vernon is flying in from Scotland to perform at the Gala dinner being held on the Saturday night. David is the accordionist in the popular “Spirit of Scotland Show” (Edinburgh’s premier traditional Scottish show), which averages over 250 performances per year.
So, if you are interested in spending a weekend in the Great Lake area of Tasmania known for its natural environment and you enjoy Celtic music, whisky tasting, gourmet Scottish food and scran, pipe bands, fly fishing, hickory golf, dancing, tall tales, kinship and a chance to don your tartan, then attending the Tasmanian Highlands Gathering is the place for you.
Falkirk Football Club are pleased to announce the launch of their new Heritage Kit for season 2023/24, which is the first in a series which will pay homage to people, events or landmarks strongly connected with Falkirk and Falkirk District, as they look ahead to their 150th anniversary in season 2026-27. This season the striking yellow and dark blue design features the embattled motif from Falkirk’s coat of arms on its front. This is based on the original Livingston of Callendar crest, with the embattlement feature later added to signify the Antonine Wall which runs through the town.
Sir John de Graeme
The rear commemorates the life and death of one of Falkirk District’s most famous sons, Sir John de Graeme/Graham. Born in the 13th century at Dundaff Castle, John de Graeme was considered to be William Wallace’s right-hand man, fighting at Stirling Bridge and losing his life at the Battle of Falkirk in 1298. 2023 marks the 725th anniversary of the battle and the back of the strip features the lion rampant, 1298 and the Graeme coat of arms which adorns Sir John’s tomb in the graveyard of Falkirk Old Parish, the site of the original ‘speckled church’ from which Falkirk derives its name.
Wallace was said to be distraught at his friend’s death, and the top is signed off with a line from Blind Harry’s epic 15th century poem The Wallace in which he describes the outpouring of grief from all of the local townsfolk who attended Sir John’s funeral. Today, the name of Sir John de Graeme/Graham lives on in Falkirk in the Grahamston District, Grahamston Train Station and Graham’s Road, as well as the Graeme Hotel and Graeme High School whose badge also carries the clam shell motifs from the Graham coat of arms.
As a mark of respect the third strip will remain sponsor free and a share of profits from all match-worn and replica sales will be donated to charity. Dundaff Castle lies at the head of the Carron Valley so, in memory of Sir John de Graeme, Strathcarron Hospice has been chosen as the beneficiary for this season.
The club also wishes to express its deep gratitude to The Society of John Graeme for their help and support with the launch of the kit.
As the days get shorter and the nights extend, Scotland becomes a winter wonderland and a feast for the senses with celebrations, light shows and magic. Scotland transforms in the winter months and a winter walk is the perfect way to make the most of the short, crisp days, watching as landscapes sparkle in the ethereal light and distant hills are capped with snow.
There’s nothing better than wrapping up warm and getting outside, especially knowing that the reward for a day well spent embracing the elements is warming up by the fire with a hot chocolate, or a wee dram, as part of a winter break in Scotland. If this sounds like the perfect match, then Scotland is the place to be as winter begins to call. So, coorie in and find out where the magic is happening this winter!
There ain’t no party like a Scotland party
Edinburgh’s Hogmanay Torchlight Procession. Photo: Ian Georgeson.
Winter is not a time for hibernation, it’s a moment for celebration! Kicking off the festivities is St Andrew’s Day on 30th November. Celebrating Scotland’s patron saint is a great reason to put on a playlist of top Scottish tunes, get some haggis on the go and be inspired for future travels to Scotland. For those in Scotland on this day, this year, Blazin’ Fiddles will be setting toes tapping at the Usher Hall in Edinburgh and Mharsanta in Glasgow will be hosting an evening of traditional Scottish food and drink.
Looking ahead to all that awaits in the New Year, Scotland’s cities hold festivals and events throughout December, culminating in Hogmanay. At times like this, it seems as though the whole country is celebrating together with whisky, fireworks and ceilidh dancing. This year, Edinburgh’s four-day Hogmanay celebrations will kick off with the return of the Torchlight Procession which will blaze a trail through the capital’s Old Town for the first time since 2019. On Saturday 31 December, the tranquil Candlelit Concert at St Giles’ Cathedral provides a festive celebration featuring stunning music for brass, choir and organ.
New for 2023 Edinburgh’s Hogmanay introduces First Footin’, an afternoon of free live music and performance taking place across the Old and New Towns in some of Edinburgh’s landmark attractions, incredible venues and independent pubs including Cold Town House, Greyfriars Hall at Virgin Hotels Edinburgh, Rose Theatre and The Auld Hundred in Rose Street, the Grassmarket’s Black Bull and The Huxley in the West End. First Footin’ audiences can explore the city enjoying Hogmanay traditions of friendship, food and drink along with live music.
Beyond the cities, the party atmosphere spreads far and wide. Those venturing to Aberdeenshire can discover one of the oldest New Year celebrations in the world… The Stonehaven Fireballs. It doesn’t all end there; the festive spirit continues throughout the season with the Up Helly Aa Fire Festivals across Shetland (Jan-Mar), and on Burns Night, visitors can enjoy birthday celebrations for Robert Burns. Also in January, Celtic Connections, the city’s annual folk, roots and world music festival, comes to Glasgow – Scotland’s UNESCO City of Music.
Bright Lights
Castle of Light: Magic and Mystery.
The winter nights come to life across Scotland thanks to a variety of light trails and installations; the dark skies become dazzling spectacles transforming some the country’s most beloved attractions in unexpected ways.
Castle of Light: Magic and Mystery, Edinburgh Castle-Returning to transform the city’s skyline for a fourth fantastic year, Castle of Light promises to bring even more unmissable moments to Edinburgh Castle as the iconic landmark is illuminated with extraordinary light and sounds displays through much of December and into January. An enchanting experience for all ages, guests can uncover the secrets of Scotland’s past in the unique after-dark walking trail as a tapestry of all-new storytelling projections dance across the castle walls telling tales of magic, mystery and spectacular sorcery.
Monteviot Winter Light Trail, Jedburgh-Monteviot House and Gardens, near Jedburgh, will host its inaugural winter light trail, Monteviot Lights, until 10th December. The trail will shine a light on the beauty of the Scottish Borders as visitors embark on a captivating outdoor illuminated journey in Monteviot House’s spectacular gardens.
Winter Essentials
Glasgow’s Christmas festivities. Photo: Glasgow Life.
It wouldn’t be the festive season without a few seasonal essentials… Think meeting Santa, Christmas Markets and seeing a reindeer or two! Roaming freely since 1952, The Cairngorm Reindeer Herd is Britain’s only free-ranging herd of reindeer with daily hill trips to see the reindeers up close.
Glasgow’s Christmas festivities -George Square will see the city’s festivities throughout December, as well as the Christmas Lights Switch On in late-November. As the event which kicks off the countdown to Christmas in Glasgow, a series of traditional festivities will follow. Among the family favourites are the Blessing of the Crib in George Square, the Style Mile Christmas Carnival and Baby’s First Christmas. St Enoch Square will be hosting The Christmas Fair where little ones can enjoy rides including The Blizzard and Santa’s runaway train. George Square will also be taking part in all the festive fun with its own Christmas Fair which will feature various attractions including an ice rink. The much-loved Glasgow Santa Dash takes place on Sunday 10 December, giving participants a chance to raise funds for the Beatson Cancer Charity and the Lord Provost’s Charity Fund.
Tis the season of giving! Drop by one of Scotland’s eight cities for a spot of festive shopping. Think artisanal gifts from Perth, the UK’s first City of Craft. Pick up a tartan gift celebrating V&A Dundee’s landmark exhibition Tartan which runs to January 2024. Get historical in Dunfermline, Scotland’s former capital and go local in Stirling, exploring the Victorian shopping mall filled with independent retailers. Across Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness and Aberdeen there’s a great mix of brands and local businesses to discover where shoppers can pick up the perfect gift of Scotland.
Head to a magical winter wonderland at Dundee’s WinterFest @ Slessor Gardens. Have fun at the vintage funfair, enjoy views over the city’s skyline on the Big Wheel and finish off with the Bavarian bar for some festive drinks or opt to dawn some ice skates and make the most of the open-air WinterFest ice-rink. Braemar’s Festival de Noël, featuring family events, 40 market stalls, Christmas concert and workshops. The Deeside village will be transformed into a winter wonderland with a Santa train, horse and carriage rides, wreath making and a host of workshops, including photography and chocolate and beer tasting with local producers. Sunday is market day, with over 40 food, drink and craft stalls spread over three venues — with free carriage rides to take shoppers from A to B as they are serenaded by carol singers, pipers piping and a brass band. Festival de Noel will take place from Friday 8th – Sunday 10th December 2023.
Get cosy and coorie in
The Wallace Monument in Stirling. Photo: TravMedia/VisitScotland.
Ross Bay Retreats, Dumfries & Galloway-Situated in the UNESCO Galloway & Southern Ayrshire Biosphere – a world class environment for people and nature and fifteen minutes away from the lively fishing port Kirkcudbright – ‘The Artists’ Town’, get set to be greeted with a homemade welcome cake upon arrival at one of these cosy coastal cottages overlooking Ross Bay. Featuring stunning scenery and sea views, guests can roam across the working farm (with the option to meet some of the animals) or opt to explore the acres of forest and coastline. Four legged friends are welcome, with pooches receiving a welcome pack of their very own.
Loch Katrine Eco Lodges, Stirling-Choose from 10 lochside lodges in one of the most beautiful parts of The Trossachs overlooking Loch Katrine and Ben Venue. Located seven miles from Callander and five miles from Aberfoyle, this eco camp is the perfect base to get away from it all but still be within a short drive to bustling tourist hubs. Walk, cycle and explore the beauty of this exceptional place, part of one of Britain’s largest National Nature Reserves. Set sail onto Loch Katrine and make the most of the festive celebrations on board including Santa sailings (over 11 days in December) on Lady of the Lake and in the Steamship Café, or opt for a New Year sail on 1st and 2nd January on the restored Steamship Sir Walter Scott (providing an hour long sail with a traditional Scottish band playing on board, a New Year welcome drink and shortbread).
Highland Coast Hotels, North Coast 500-Highland Coast Hotels brings together a collection of unique hotels on the North Coast 500. This winter, guests can embark on an adventure like no other, exploring three stunning coasts thanks to the East Meets West itinerary package. It’s the perfect way to be immersed in the local culture, explore hidden gems and tuck into seasonal produce at different properties along the route with a luxury winter lunch picnic.
Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder-Scotland’s own Glorious Playground comes alive at Christmas, with decorations designed to evoke the wintry scenery of the surrounding Perthshire countryside. The hotel will be transformed into a magical wonderland and a whole range of family friendly activities. From brisk trail walks, and outdoor adventures by day, to roaring log fires and decadent dining by night, there is something for everyone at Gleneagles.
Glenapp Castle, Ayrshire-Glenapp Castle, set on the stunning Ayrshire coast, is the perfect retreat to enjoy long scenic walks on a crisp winter day, whether that be throughout the estate or along the stunning Ayrshire Coastal Path. Choose to unwind with a relaxing in-suite massage, or warm up at the private members coastal spa nearby. Those looking for something more active can choose from Glenapp’s unique Glenapp activity programme, which offers over 70 different amazing activities and experiences both on and off-site, including axe-throwing, archery, hiking, mountain biking, cookery lessons, and more. After a day of exploring, tuck into a wonderful dining experience with a three-course gourmet dinner, offering mouth-watering canapes and handmade petit fours at the award-winning, three AA rosette dining room.
Main and cover photo: Winter magic at Glenmore Forest Park, Cairngorms National Park. Photo: VisitScotland/Kenny Lam.
Nestled in amongst the iconic Brisbane River, the venerable Wesley Hospital and popular Auchenflower Stadium, the historical Moorelands Park, Brisbane proved to be a truly ideal setting in not only installing the Celtic Stones Monument as a tribute to all Celtic Nations but also the ideal venue for a day of dedication and celebration of all that is Celtic. Billowing clouds occasionally swept across the sky during the ceremony but the dark clouds, breezy conditions or threatening horizons couldn’t dampen the enthusiasm and celebration of the day.
Celtic stones
Sunday the 8th of October 2023 will forever be recorded in Brisbane history as the date of the Celtic Council of Australia’s (Queensland) Inc. (CCAQ) Inauguration of the Celtic Nations Monument. Much preparation had gone into the setting up of the site with the grounds ringed by a row of tents representing a number of Celtic organisations, the undercover seating, the stage and of course the Standing Stones. In connecting Brisbane with the Celtic nations, what better way to acknowledge that ancient Northern tradition with a Southern Hemisphere nuance. As a result, the Brisbane Celtic Stones are configured in the shape of the Southern Cross. A truly local touch to the Celtic past. After the Ceremony, a splendid free concert was then provided by representatives of all the various Celtic nations.
What are Celtic Stones? The concept is ancient, and their true origins are clouded in the mists of time. However, research has discovered Celts raised the stones to commemorate a notable event, in identifying the seasons to assist in the sowing and harvesting of crops but most importantly as the principal venue for Celts to gather in celebration.
For more information on the Celtic Council of Australia (QLD) see: www.ccaq.org.au.
Over 12 years ago, Tallahassee saw what was expected to be its last Highland Games. But in 2023, a new organization, May & Fain Cultural & Sports, took up the mantle and revived the Games under their nonprofit. The event was massively successful, boasting a guest turnout of 7,000 guests in spite of torrential rains, 45 athletes, Heavy Athletics, Stones of Strength, 2 stages hosting music and dance, and an abundance of vendors and food! This coming year, The Tallahassee Highland Games will be held February 3-4, 2024, in Tallahassee, Florida. May & Fain Cultural & Sports is absolutely thrilled to invite all Scots from around the globe to attend and/or participate in this event!
Active support for revival of Scottish heritage
The joy of Celtic music.
After an enormously successful first year, 2024 projections are exponential, with an expected 18,000+ attendees for the event. The Games will be held at Apalachee Regional Park, boasting 90 cleared acres of space and providing ample room for growth. May & Fain is taking great care to provide the best support possible for Scottish heritage and strength activities – both in 2024 and future years. For Athletics, a $4,000 Prize & Scholarship pot is available for our events. We are proudly hosting the International Highland Games Federation United States Caber Toss Championships as part of our Heavy Athletics Competition. Stones of Strength will be featured, including events honoring Tallahassee’s Bicentennial Celebration. Lastly, we are hosting multiple World Record Breaker attempts!
The feats of the Heavy Events.
Clans are receiving special care and support in 2024, where our 18,000+ attendees will provide ample opportunity to reconnect with friends and recruit new members. All clans and nonprofit heritage organizations are granted FREE entrance to our event. To support accessibility, volunteer assistance is available to help with the setup of clan tents and displays. Additionally, clans will be placed near the Athletics Field with a clear view of the action. We are also offering time on-stage to present Historical and/or Heritage Talks, including Clan History.
To help “bridge the gap” between generations, we are seeking new ways to engage younger guests with Clans. To this end, we are hosting several optional Clan Competitions this year: Best Whisky, Best Clan Presence, and Best Kids’ Activity. What is “Clan Presence”? It’s not the number of representatives – it’s the richness of tent displays and hospitality.
The Earl and Countess of Caithness
The 2024 Tallahassee Highland Games welcomes the Chief of Clan Sinclair and his wife, the Rt. Hon. The Earl and Countess of Caithness, all the way from Scotland as they host their Annual General Meeting at our Games. Clan Sinclair is our 2024 Honored Clan, and we hope this launches into a tradition for these Games. Their presence underscores the significance of Clan Sinclair within the Scottish diaspora and promises to make our event even more memorable.
Entertainment will feature three stages, including traditional and modern Scottish music, pipe bands, dancing, a beard competition, historical talks, and more. Additional activities include on-site whisky tasting, heritage demonstrations including falconry, blacksmithing, archery, and historical martial arts, and an on-site Saturday evening Cèilidh and Sunday morning Kirkin’.
Where do the proceeds go?
Highland dance displays.
May & Fain Cultural & Sports is dedicated to the promotion and preservation of strength sports and the cultures surrounding them. In addition to the Tallahassee Highland Games, May & Fain promotes, hosts, and donates to a plethora of other events and activities. In 2023, we provided over $2,500 in donations and support for Scottish & Irish Dance Schools, and we assisted one school in hosting a cèilidh fundraising event. An additional $1,000+ was donated to local Music Groups. We have assisted with the revitalization of several local music groups, and promoted our local St. Andrew’s Society with notable success. In coming years, we hope to see an increase in these numbers as we build our organization.
For Heavy Athletics, May & Fain successfully launched what is affectionately dubbed “Team Tallahassee” – a volunteer group offering weekly training in Highland athletics at no cost! This includes the efforts of several professional-grade Highland athletes generously donating their time and expertise to increase access to Scottish strength heritage, and a plethora of equipment provided by our nonprofit. May & Fain actively works with the Special Olympics powerlifting team to provide support and hopefully assist with hosting a local meet.
Last year, we featured Broken Caber at our event – an organization assisting Adaptive Athletes (those missing limbs, suffering neurological disorders, etc.) in training and participation in Highland Games globally. We have an active relationship with other nonprofits as well, including the St. Andrew’s Society of Tallahassee, North Florida Facial Hair Society, Daughters of the American Revolution, and more. Our long-term goals are to host diverse and accessible events highlighting Strength and Heritage, such as the Highland Games. While we are building our Highland Games and Strongman events (including the America’s Strongest State Championship), we hope to expand into other athletic and heritage areas as well. Slàinte Mhath, and we hope to see you there!
To learn more about the 2024 Tallahassee Highland Games, purchase tickets, or donate, please visit: www.tallyhighlandgames.com. If you would like to participate as a clan representative, athlete, vendor, or volunteer, please reach out at: [email protected].
Text by: Ryan May, Tallahassee Highland Games Organizer, President: May & Fain Cultural & Sports.
The overall winner of the prestigious Glenfiddich Piping Championship 2023 has been named as Callum Beaumont, as the event celebrates five decades of sensational piping. The prestigious Championship, which was first held in 1974, was founded by Sandy Grant Gordon of William Grant and Sons, and Seumas MacNeill who was Principal of the College of Piping at the time. It was established to inspire the world’s finest exponents of Ceòl Mòr or Piobaireachd (the great music) and Ceòl Beag or light music (the little music). Run by The National Piping Centre, the world centre for excellence in bagpipe music, and funded through the William Grant Foundation, the event is held annually in Perthshire. Callum Beaumont went up against nine of the world’s greatest solo players at the landmark 50th edition of the annual competition at Blair Castle last night to claim the title, his first time lifting the trophy.
Finlay Johnston was crowned runner-up and Alex Gandy was third overall. Callum Beaumont was also named the Piobaireachd winner, and the March, Strathspey and Reel (MSR) competition winner was Alex Gandy. The recipient of this year’s Balvenie Medal, which is awarded annually for services to piping, was Roderick J MacLeod MBE. The five-time Glenfiddich Champion was nominated for the award by his peers for his huge contribution to the world of piping through his solo, pipe band and professional career. The Championship played out in front of a packed live audience in Blair Castle’s Victorian Ballroom, with advance tickets having sold out well ahead of the event, as well as hundreds of spectators from around the world watching the competition online.
Legacy of great pipers
Callum Beaumont.
Overall winner Callum Beaumont said: “I’m honoured to be taking home the Glenfiddich trophy today. It was fantastic to be part of the 50th edition of the Championship competing against such incredible pipers – everyone gave it their all so it means a lot to be the overall winner, and to join the legacy of great pipers who have received this honour in the past five decades.”
The National Piping Centre’s Director of Piping, Finlay MacDonald, said: “It was fantastic to have ten of the world’s best pipers competing here at Blair Castle for this special edition of the Glenfiddich Piping Championship. The Championship is the peak of all solo piping competitions, representing the very best in piping talent from around the world. It was a tough competition, with some incredible performances, so congratulations to our winners and runners up this year and a big thank you to everyone who came along to watch or tuned in online, and anyone who has supported the Championship over the past 50 years.”
This year’s competitors were once again chosen from the list of qualifying events, with Willie McCallum the Overall Winner of the 2022 Glenfiddich Piping Championship. Callum Beaumont won The Clasp for Senior Piobaireachd and the Former Winners MSR at the Northern Meeting, where Innes Smith was the Gold Medal Winner and Finlay Johnston took second in the Former Winners’ March, Strathspey and Reel. Angus MacColl was the Senior Piobaireachd winner at the Argyllshire Gathering, with Alex Gandy winning the Former Winners’ March, Strathspey and Reel, Alasdair Henderson taking the gold medal and Jack Lee taking second place in the Former Winners’ March, Strathspey and Reel at the same event. At the Scottish Pipers’ Society of London Competition, Fred Morrison was named the Overall Champion, while Bruce Gandy was awarded the Bratach Gorm, as well winning the Piping Live! Masters Solo Piping Competition overall prize.
The Central Florida Scottish Highland Games, the largest community event in Seminole County, is organized each year by the Scottish American Society of Central Florida. The event was created to promote and preserve the area’s strong Scottish and Celtic heritage. Each January, the two-day gathering welcomes thousands of visitors to Central Winds Park in Winter Springs, Florida – just north of Orlando – for a celebration of tradition, community and culture.
In 2024, the festivities will begin on Thursday evening with the annual whisky tasting, where visitors are welcome to sample from an array of expertly curated spirits. Presented by, The Whisky Cabinet, a group of dedicated local whisky enthusiasts, with an emphasis on unique and rare whiskies to engage, educate and entertain whisky newbies and connoisseurs alike. Things take off on Saturday with several competitions including in traditional heavy athletics, Highland dance, bagpiping, and shortbread and scone baking.
Something for everyone
There is also the popular Boulder Boogie event, where contestants vie for bragging rights of carrying a heaviest stone the farthest distance without dropping it. The weekend also hosts several cultural activities, including Border Collie demonstrations, a gathering of Scottish clans, musical performances, a medieval camp, axe throwing, and much more. Our festival is a family friendly event featuring non-competitive “Kids Games” version of the traditional heavy athletics, arts & crafts and loads of other activities for the wee ones. Both kids and adults can enjoy the unique shopping opportunities.
The Central Florida Scottish Highland Games features some of the best Celtic artisans presenting jewelry, clothing, artistry, weaponry and more. Get yourself a kilt or new sporran. Add to your Celtic jewelry or purchase unique Celtic inspired gifts typically found only in Scotland and the UK. There is plenty of food and drink. Come out and have a beer, wine or whisky with your haggis, scotch-egg, or fish and chips. Finally, there is the Ceilidh, a Scottish and Celtic gathering featuring the music of Albannach, Barley Juice and others performing on the “Lochside” stage.
Whether you are looking to explore your heritage and enjoy a stroll through the clan village or cheering on the displays of strength and skill on the athletic fields, or simply enjoying some food and drink with friends while listening to the music, there is something for everyone at the Central Florida Scottish Highland Games.
The Central Florida Scottish Highland Games take place January 13-14, 2024 in Winter Springs, Florida.Tickets are now on sale. Visit www.Flascot.com/tickets for details.
A bonnie day was had by thousands of people who joined Clan Hororata at the 12th annual Hororata Highland Games 11th November 2023. Colin Forsyth travelled back from his home in Scotland to take the role of Chieftain at the Hororata Highland Games. A founding committee member of the event, it has been nine years since he has been able to attend the Games.
Colin was blown away by how the community has grown this festival. He said: “12 years ago, I took a phone call, they said, ‘we have this idea can you help us’; I said, why not and got on board. There was a lot of trust put in me and we got the first Hororata Highland Games off the ground. The community took my ideas, questioned some, added a kiwi twist, and created one of the world’s greatest highland games, and I know this because I have been fortunate to attend many games around the world. I was simply blown away as I wandered around the festival, it is just phenomenal. The committee has stayed true to our initial vision but expanded it into something that was beyond my wildest dreams.”
Traditional Scottish events
Hororata Highland Games 2023
The Hororata Highland Games hosted nearly 1,000 competitors of all ages competing in traditional Scottish events, with a record number of Highland dancers, pipers and drummers. Visitors got involved with over 1,000 people having a go at tossing a caber, pie eating, running the Kilted Mile, and taking on the Highland Challenge. A highlight of the day was the massed band march and Chieftain’s welcoming ceremony. Followed by a massed Scottish Country Dance where the crowd got to jump the fence into the main arena to dance the specially choreographed ‘Hororata Heavies’ in celebration of 100 years to the Royal Scottish Country Dancing Society.
Massed bands.
St Andrew’s Square hosted 23 Clans and held a moving Armistice Day service at 11.11am while two Spitfires sored overhead. The Hororata Highland Games is a community run event with all proceeds benefiting the rural area. 14 community groups raise funds for their own causes and over 200 volunteers join Clan Hororata to deliver the event. It is a shining example of what a community can do by pulling together with a common vision. Colin Forsyth added: “It was one of the greatest honours that has ever been bestowed on me is to be to the head of the Hororata Clan as their Chieftain. I am so proud of what the Hororata community is achieving. Thank you to all the volunteers, competitors, stallholders, sponsors and everyone who came, it is you who make this event what it is.”
The Hororata Highland Games is a Scottish festival, with a Kiwi twist, in Hororata, Canterbury, New Zealand. The 2024 Hororata Highland Games will take place on Saturday November, 9th. For more details see: www.hororata.org.nz/highland-games.
Communities across Scotland are being asked to consider whether their local area could be designated as the country’s newest national park. Individuals, groups or organisations considering making a proposal can now register early interest. The government has committed to designating at least one new national park in Scotland by Spring 2026. Visiting Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park, Minister for Green Skills, Circular Economy and Biodiversity Lorna Slater said: “I look forward to engaging with communities and learning more about their proposals, and I encourage everyone to get involved as we move closer to naming Scotland’s next national park. Our existing national parks play an important role in tackling the biodiversity and climate crises, whilst also supporting local communities, businesses and visitors. Last year we consulted widely on the future of national parks in Scotland, and there was broad support for our commitment to create at least one new park by 2026.”
A more sustainable future for Scotland
Chief Executive of Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park Authority Gordon Watson said: “National Parks have a vital role to play in securing a more sustainable future for Scotland. They are unique places where we can maximise the benefits that can be provided for nature, climate and people. Scotland has set ambitious targets to reach Net Zero and to restore biodiversity by 2045. If we are to reach those targets, urgent, bold action is required and Scotland’s existing – and any new – National Parks can make a substantial contribution. Through scaling up our efforts to lock-in carbon in the landscape, restore nature at scale and enable a greener low-emission economy, we can, together, help Scotland make significant progress towards these commitments.” Scotland currently has two national parks, the Cairngorms and Loch Lomond and the Trossachs.
Glasgow’s iconic Pollok House has closed for approximately two years to facilitate the second phase of a £4 million programme of investment led by Glasgow City Council. The works will comprise roof and general building fabric repairs. Visitors and members of the National Trust for Scotland have until then to explore the house and view the opulent upper rooms used in the past by the Stirling Maxwell family, admire the precious works of art displayed and also discover the lower-level spaces in which staff and servants worked. The popular café and shop in the old servants’ wing on the ground floor and the outdoor space will remain open until the spring of 2024.
Historic mansion
Pollok House was built in 1752, close to the site of earlier dwellings dating back to medieval times, and was extended between 1890 and 1904. In the late 19th and through to the mid-20th century, it was the home of Sir John Stirling Maxwell, 10th Baronet, a great benefactor to Glasgow and one of the founders of the National Trust for Scotland. It is said that the conversation that led to the Trust being established took place in Pollok House’s Cedar Room at the beginning of the 1930s. A key part of the city’s heritage, Pollok House and the surrounding Pollok Country Park is owned by the people of Glasgow, after the historic mansion and the collections contained therein were gifted to the city by Sir John’s daughter, Dame Anne Maxwell Macdonald, 11th Baronetess in 1966. The National Trust for Scotland has managed the house under contract to Glasgow City Council for 25 years.
The Minginish peninsula on Skye was largely cleared in the Clearances of the 1800s but 100 years ago it was deliberately repopulated on land bought by the government from the MacLeod’s of Dunvegan Castle, with crofts created as part of the “land for heroes” campaign after the First World War. Families from Harris, Lewis and other parts of Skye arrived between 1923 and 1924. Now the community is celebrating that anniversary, looking to put together an exhibition in June 2024 and erect a memorial as Judy Vickers explains.
Ploughing in Satran in 1935.
The land in north Talisker, near the famous distiller, had stood almost empty of people for more than 100 years after the brutal Clearances of the 19th century. The Clearances in Scotland saw tenants evicted from their homes, farms and crofts, sometimes physically and forcibly, by landowners keen to make better use and more money from their estates, more often than not by creating large areas for profitable sheep from the seized land. The Clearances, which took place in various parts of Scotland during the 18th and 19th centuries, left a scar on Scotland’s history and its people; many ended up emigrating and plenty did not forget the land which had sometimes been worked by the same family for generations. In the wake of the First World War, emotions were running high. Returning servicemen had been promised “land for heroes” and the post-war period was marked by a series of land riots and land raids – where families set up home and began farming on land that had been ancestrally theirs. But in north Talisker in Skye the early 1920s saw a kind of reverse Clearances, and one that was actually carried out by the government.
“The land where we are in Talisker had been really badly cleared by the MacLeod family and turned over to sheep so there were very few families that were originally from the area still here, it was a pretty empty landscape,” explains Nick Middleton, one of the modern-day residents in north Talisker on the Minginish peninsula. He adds: “Men had been promised land before they went to fight in the First World War and they weren’t given it on their return. There were quite a few land riots and land raids, I think the government was embarrassed into acting. The Land Settlement Act of 1919 was a fairly important law in that it allowed compulsory purchase of land from various estates, it happened not just here, Raasay (an island off Skye), and Glendale in north of Skye had similar settlements.”
The centenary of their creation
A family in Fiskavaig in 1957.
In fact, the Macleods of Dunvegan Castle sold 60 acres to the government in order to clear debts and between 1923 and 1924 68 families, almost all from Harris and Lewis in the Western Isles moved to Skye and created a new community. Now that community, including many who are descendants of those original families, are celebrating the centenary of their creation. Organisers of the anniversary events have been collecting photographs and old film and recording memories from older members of the community to mark the special event. Celebrations will culminate in June next year (2024) with a week-long series of events including exhibitions and ceilidhs and ending with the unveiling of a memorial cairn, for which the community is currently fundraising. Of the 68 families who came to Skye to take up the offer of a new croft, 43 came from Harris and 20 from Lewis in the Western Isles with just five from Skye itself, all with a connection to service in the First World War. Men, women and children arrived over the course of a year to create a community of around 400 people, living in the townships of Fernilea, Fiskavaig, Portnalong and Satran.
They came willing because although leaving their home islands behind must have been hard, the offer of a secure croft was too good to refuse. Not that life on Skye was easy, the land had not been cultivated for more than a century and the families had to start from scratch. They were sold small wooden huts – 10ft by 20ft – for £70, a loan which was halved if they built their own house. They had to build their own roads and clear the land to be able to begin farming.
Elizabeth Morrison is the granddaughter of one of the original families who moved to Skye. Allan MacLeod came from Carragrich in Harris, his parents and brother came with him and settled near Portree. “My grandfather was in the merchant navy, they were told when they came back from the First World War, the government would provide land for them but there was nothing available in Harris,” she explains. “Here they were provided with government huts, two-roomed buildings that they had to pay £70 for and they got two cows to start them off but there was nothing here. They had to clear the ground, they had to work hard to get their crofts up and running. Grandpa helped built the road to Portnalong.”
Fiskavaig in 1963.
Her grandfather eventually set up a shop, his family had been shopkeepers on Harris, and allowed the wives to run up debts for essentials while their men were at sea fishing. “So, he provided for all the families, then when the men came back, they paid it off – there was a great sense of community like that, they all looked out for each other and helped each other out.” Nick adds: “There were collective activities, such as planting potatoes, 20 or 30 people would move from croft to croft so everyone shared in the labour to plant and get a crop in. They brought cattle with them. The cattle were spiked into the ground to stop them roaming and the chains cleared the bracken, then the cows trampled it into the ground. The pictures from the 1930s show them just starting to use horses to work the land.”
They lived on porridge, milk, potatoes, fish and crowdie cheese. “They were very self-sufficient; they were skilled in fishing and agriculture and they were a pretty hardy independent people. No-one had a lot of money, everyone was in the same boat, it was really egalitarian. I’m sure I wouldn’t survive very well but they were hardy devils,” says Nick.
Close-knit friendly place
Harvest time in Satran, 1964.
And while it sounds a tough lifestyle to modern ears, there was definitely a sense of contentment in the community, something which amazed Silver Darlings author Neil Gunn, whose own ancestors had been cleared from land in Sutherland, when he visited in 1937. He described the sound of looms clicking, many from Harris had brought their looms with them, from “snug and comfortable” homes and the “bright faces” of those who, while there were some grumbles, on the whole felt they “got a good and, in some respects, a generous deal”. In fact, the community was so self-sufficient it was many years before money was used regularly. Nick says: “It wasn’t until quite late, after the world war, when the Talisker Distillery took on more people and there were quite well-paid jobs that money was used and groceries vans began to come out from Portree.”
Collecting old photos for the Centenary Project, Minginish Hall, 2023.
Now of course the community has changed with people leaving and incomers arriving but residents say it is still a close-knit friendly place to live – and that many descendants of the original families still call north Talisker home, including Elizabeth. She says: “I grew up here. I left when I was 18 – I worked in England and Inverness because there wasn’t an awful lot for me here. I’m now 60, I moved back 22 years ago. My children grew up here, my daughter was born here, they are the fourth generation. A lot of my school friends, people my age, have done exactly the same, gone away, then returned to the island. I think something always pulls you back.”
And she says working on the centenary project, collecting memories and photographs, has brought a new dimension to the community. She says: “I feel the whole project has brought the community together after Covid. We have brought everyone out, it’s a social thing as well as a history project, there is a camaraderie there. It’s a positive story, we are unique, very, very unique, I don’t think there is anywhere else that has this story.”
First time competitor Adam Kiani, representing Pakistan, has been crowned World Porridge Making Champion after beating competitors from around the world at the 30th World Porridge Making Championship, which took place in the Highland village of Carrbridge. Adam was amongst 30 competitors competing for the highly-coveted title of World Porridge Making Champion and the Golden Spurtle trophy. The 2023 event had a truly international flavour attracting competitors from UK shores and as far afield as USA, Canada, Cyprus, Zimbabwe, Ghana, Pakistan, Indonesia, Netherlands, and Germany.
High quality of the entrants
An overjoyed Adam said “I am delighted and humbled to win this great event, especially considering the high quality of the entrants and their creations. It’s been a really great day, and I am totally over the moon to be crowned a World Champion. This will take time to sink in.” In addition to the main competition, the title of Speciality Porridge Champion is awarded to the creator of a sweet or savoury dish where oatmeal can be combined with any other ingredients. The Speciality Dish was won by another first-time entrant Bobby Fisher from London. Bobby said “I am overjoyed with winning this award and hope my good friend Charlie who is local to Carrbridge is proud. We always joked about entering the World Porridge Championships and winning the Golden Spurtle. It’s t-oat-ally a dream come true.”
Oatmeal, water and salt
The title of World Porridge Making Champion is awarded to the contestant deemed to have made the best traditional porridge using just three ingredients – oatmeal, water and salt. Charlie Miller the 2023 Porridge Chieftain of the World Porridge Making Championship said: “It has been wonderful to have porridge fans, their supporters and so many visitors attend the 30th edition of this great event. We are delighted the competition continues to attract new and inspirational contestants. What started all these years ago as very much as a small local event has grown to be a highlight of Scotland’s food and drink calendar. It’s truly wonderful to see competitors from around the world coming to Carrbridge with such enthusiasm for both the competition but also being here in Carrbridge.”
Historic Environment Scotland (HES) has started inspecting 5,000 years of history in Orkney as part of its High-Level Masonry Programme. Access will be maintained where possible while inspections are undertaken. The specially trained High-Level Masonry team will use a range of specialist access equipment to carry out hand’s-on tactile inspections to carefully examine the culturally significant sites, some of which are thousands of years old. Eleven historic sites across Orkney including Midhowe Broch, St Magnus Church, and Noltland Castle will be inspected between now and December. The results of the inspections will then inform any necessary repair works or future interventions.
The inspection teams will also work closely with the local works teams and conservation experts to carry out minor repairs as they go, where possible. The High-Level Masonry Programme is assessing the condition of higher-level structures at historic sites following deterioration caused by climate change and a number of other factors, including the materials used in the building’s construction, its age and physical location. Whilst this is not an issue unique to Scotland, HES is believed to be amongst the first heritage managers to approach it in this way and is sharing findings with peer organisations. As a safety precaution, access is currently restricted at Pierowall Church and Westside Church, St Mary’s Chapel, St Magnus Church, Eynhallow Church and Midhowe Chambered Cairn.
Some of Scotland’s most significant and diverse heritage sites
The other sites being inspected are currently accessible to visitors and HES will maintain as much access as possible, where it is safe to do so, while the inspections are being carried out. Visitors may find some temporary access restrictions around the areas currently being inspected, or areas undergoing or awaiting necessary repair work. While the inspection teams are on-site, they will also be available to answer any questions from visitors who are interested in finding out more about the programme and the work being carried out. The inspections follow on from pre-inspection work that was carried out in Orkney earlier this year. This included ground archaeology and ecology reports which were required prior to inspections being carried out.
This work was vital to ensure the safety of the inspection staff and contractors and allowed HES to carefully consider the safest method to inspect sites and plan accordingly. Craig Mearns, Director of Operations at HES, said: “Orkney is home to some of Scotland’s most significant and diverse heritage sites, spanning 5,000 years of history, and these inspections will allow us to assess and mitigate the impact that climate change and other factors has had on them. Visitors will continue to enjoy access to the sites while the inspections are ongoing, where it is safe to do so, and I encourage anyone who is interested in this work to engage with the inspection teams while they are on-site to find out more about what the work involves and why it is an important aspect in the care of these world-renowned heritage assets.”
During the Highland Clearances in the 18th and 19th centuries, when tenants were evicted across the Highlands and Islands, townships (clusters of agricultural smallholdings) steadily disappeared. Much of this activity, associated with the Scottish Agricultural Revolution of the 18th century, was based on agricultural improvement which involved the alteration of the usage of farmland to make it more profitable for the landowners. Most Scottish townships were affected by these changes between 1780 and 1860.
Some were converted into crofting townships, in which tenants had to combine farming with work in local industries for survival. Other townships were transformed into owner-occupied or single-tenant farms. In 1850 a handful of Highland townships remained, and by the early 20th century most had fallen into ruin, some ultimately being nearly effaced from the landscape. But one survived these massive upheavals: Auchindrain.
The blackthorn field
Campbells’ Barn, Auchindrain by David Hawgood, CC BY-SA 2.0.
The name deriving from a Gaelic term meaning ‘the blackthorn field’ or ‘the field of the blackthorn tree’, Auchindrain is situated in Argyll and Bute, 10km south of Inveraray on the A83. Auchindrain first appeared in the historical record in the 16th century, but it may have been established earlier in the late mediaeval period. Having lost the township at some point, the Dukes of Argyll reacquired Auchindrain in 1776. In 1789 surveyor George Langlands drew up a plan for the dukes for the rebuilding and reorganisation of Auichindrain into crofts. Though the latter part of the scheme never came to pass (probably for economic reasons), in the ensuing decades rebuilding took place and the township adopted methods of improved agriculture, possibly with support and encouragement from the dukes, especially Duke George. By 1840 many of Auchindrain’s turf buildings had been reconstructed of stone.
During the rebuilding, there were some specifics for the arrangement of the structures according to the weather in the glen. Dwellings were resited so that they stood end-on to the prevailing winds of the area, so providing less wind resistance and fewer disturbances to their inhabitants. Threshing barns, on the contrary, were sited broadside to prevailing winds, so that drafts would rush through one open door and out the opposite open door, and so greatly assisting in the grain winnowing process.
Preservation of Auchindrain
Restored cottages, Auchindrain. Kim Traynor, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Auchindrain made the transition from cattle to a sheep farm, and added a sheepfold on high ground west of the township. Though while keeping some cattle, the settlement was running as a full-fledged sheep farm by the 1870s. In accordance with the agricultural improvements, Auchindrain abandoned the awkward runrig method of planting and apportioned the arable land into small fields, two each being allocated to each individual tenant. While Queen Victoria was staying at Inveraray Castle in 1875, she visited Achindrain and Achnagoul (about 5km northeast of Auchindrain), and described them as “primitive villages”.
Auchindrain continued to operate far into the 20th century, becoming the final working Highland township until the last tenant Edward MacCallum retired in 1963. Preservation of Auchindrain began in 1964, and it opened as a museum in 1968. Today the site remains open to the public as the Auchindrain Township Open Air Museum, administered by the Auchindrain Trust. The grounds extend across 22 acres and feature more than 20 historic structures. Auchindrain is a working farm, with cattle, hens, sheep and horses all resident on the grounds. The entire site is Category A listed, is designated a Conservation Area, and its buildings are a Recognised Collection.
MacCallum Longhouse and barn, Auchindrain by David Hawgood, CC BY-SA 2.0.
The Auchindrain Trust has overseen and operated the museum since 1964. The Scottish Government provides funding to the Trust via Historic Environment Scotland. Those interested in preserving Auchindrain can support the work of the Trust by becoming a Friend of Auchindrain. Donators who contribute £25 or more (£10 for seniors) per year are usually granted membership. Friends of Auchindrain become members of the Trust, can vote for trustees, and receive Auchindrain newsletters. The museum closed temporarily after several of its historic buildings were damaged in a Mid Argyll earthquake on 16 November 2021. Backed with funding from Museums Galleries Scotland, structural engineers and building conservation specialists worked on repairing the structures.
The museum reopened on 1 June 2022 during the ongoing repair work, restricting visitors to guided tours to keep them out of harm’s way. Visitors can obtain a guide-tablet or a guidebook at the Visitor Centre to assist in making one’s way round the site. A full circuit of the grounds takes 60-90 minutes. It’s recommended to dress for unpredictable weather changes, and to wear boots or heavy walking shoes to traverse the rough and sometimes muddy paths of the museum. Those with limited mobility will likely need assistance to reach some parts of the museum. Non-aggressive dogs on leads are welcome. The Visitor Centre, which houses a coffee shop and gift shop, is closed from November to March. During these months the museum offers a reduced entrance fee. Hours are daily, 10:30 to 4:30. Text by Eric Bryan.
Did you know?
Duke George
The 8th Duke of Argyll, Duke George was born in 1823 and lived at Inveraray Castle. In his teens he began to assist in managing the Argyll Estate, and became duke when his father died in 1847. Duke George contributed to the survival of Auchindrain by urging the tenants to adopt some of the methods of improved agriculture, and by allowing the settlement to continue as a joint-tenancy township. The Duke was a prolific writer, producing work on economy, geology, theology, politics, science and ornithology.
Inveraray Castle
Actually a country house, Inveraray Castle sits beside Loch Fyne in Argyll. There was a castle on the site in the 1400s, but the current building dates to the 18th century and is an early example of Gothic Revival architecture and has been the seat of the Dukes of Argyll since that time. Archibald Campbell, Earl of Ilay, later the 3rd Duke of Argyll, instigated improvements on the site of the original castle in 1743. Architects William Adam and Roger Morris based the idea for the new castle on a sketch done by Vanbrugh, the architect of Castle Howard and Blenheim Palace. In 1746 the foundation stone for the new building was laid. Adam and Morris died during the long construction of the castle, and Adam’s sons Janes and Robert completed the project 43 years after the laying of the foundation stone. The result was a then-modern, baroque, Gothic and Palladian style castle. The castle suffered an upper storey fire in 1877, which led to major restoration and additions to the structure. These, overseen by Anthony Salvin who was hired by the 8th Duke, include a third floor with dormers and a pitched roof, and conical roofs capping the four corner round towers. Circa 1890, Inveraray was the first home in Scotland to be fitted with electricity.
Main photo: Bell Pol’s House, Auchindrain by David Hawgood, CC BY-SA 2.0.
They were hidden for safekeeping underneath a stone fireplace. But they were never retrieved until now, some 330 years later. Now archaeologists have revealed that a hoard of coins buried in a small pot, just discovered in Glencoe paints a fascinating picture of life for one Highland clan chief and his household. The site in Glencoe was used as a “summerhouse” and traditionally associated with Alasdair Ruadh “MacIain” MacDonald of Glencoe, chief of the MacDonalds of Glencoe from 1646-1692. The 36 coins, which vary in date, were discovered by University of Glasgow archaeology student Lucy Ankers in the grand fireplace of the Glencoe house during an archaeological dig in August 2023.
The coins were found in a pot, with a small rounded pebble for a lid and hidden beneath a hearth stone stab. However, none of the coins were minted after the 1680s which has led archaeologists to suggest that they were most likely deposited under the fireplace either just before or during the 1692 Glencoe Massacre for safekeeping. Whoever buried the coins, did not return for them which could indicate that they were among the victims of the massacre. The MacDonalds took part in the first Jacobite rising of 1689, this resulted in the clan being targeted in the 1692 Massacre of Glencoe. In late January 1692, two companies or approximately 120 men from the Earl of Argyll’s Regiment of Foot arrived in Glencoe from Invergarry. Their commander was Robert Campbell of Glenlyon. An estimated 38 members and associates of Clan MacDonald of Glencoe were killed on 13 February 1692, including Maclain and his wife.
Dr Michael Given, a Senior Lecturer in Archaeology and Co-Director of the University of Glasgow’s archaeological project in Glencoe, said: “These exciting finds give us a rare glimpse of a single, dramatic event. Here’s what seems an ordinary rural house, but it has a grand fireplace, impressive floor slabs, and exotic pottery imported from the Netherlands and Germany. And they’ve gathered up an amazing collection of coins in a little pot and buried them under the fireplace. What’s really exciting is that these coins are no later than the 1680s: so were they buried in a rush as the Massacre started first thing in the morning of the 13th February 1692? We know some of the survivors ran through the blizzard and escaped up the side glens, including this one: were these coins witnesses to this dramatic story? It’s a real privilege, as archaeologists, to hold in our hands these objects that were so much part of people’s lives in the past.”
The Scots School Albury Pipe Band was crowned the 2023 World Pipe Band Championships in Glasgow in August, amid a gruelling 26-performance schedule at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo and just weeks after taking out the Scottish Pipe Band Championship in their category, Grade 4B.To top off what has been a highly successful tour to Scotland, the Band was crowned Grade 4B Best Drum Corps as well as Champion of Champion, which takes into account the Band’s wins in the Scottish and World Titles.
Damon Wright, Scott Nicolson, Albury Deputy Mayor Steve Bowen, Scots principal Vicki Steer, Liam Nicolson at a welcome home reception in Albury City Square.
They also performed to acclaim at Piping Live!, an annual week-long celebration of bagpipes from across the world, embracing Scotland’s heritage and that of piping cultures from around the globe. The festival coincides with the World Pipe Band Championships, held annually on Glasgow Green. The remarkable World Championship effort was accomplished by a mix of alumni, current students, some as young as 12 years old, and friends of the Pipe Band. It was led by Pipe Band Coordinator Scott Nicolson, Drum Tutor Tom Mewett, Pipe Major Liam Nicolson, Pipe Sergeant Jonny Coe, Drum Major Max Coupland and Drum Sergeant Damon Wright.
It was the Pipe Band’s second appearance at the Tattoo. It performed in 2017 and was invited back for the 2020 Tattoo, ultimately cancelled due to Covid. This year’s Tattoo ran with the colourful theme, Stories, and played host to a stunning array of performers from all points of the compass. The Scots Band performed as part of the Massed Pipes and Drums in every one of the 26 performances across 20 days.
At the World Pipe Band Championships in Glasgow.
Congratulations to:
Pipers
Pipe Major Scott Nicolson, Pipe Band Co-ordinator
Pipe Major Liam Nicolson, Year 11
Bianca Sparkes, Year 11
Jonny Coe, Year 11
Neve Harris, Year 11
Saxon Coffey, Year 7
Jessica Coe, Class of 2011
Declan Dempster, Class of 2014
Dylan Forge, Class of 2021
Angus Beath, Class of 1995
George Henderson, Class of 2018
Paul Rolph, Friend of the Pipe Band
Doug McRae, Friend of the Pipe Band
Hamish Hare, Friend of the Pipe Band
William Cavanough, Friend of the Pipe Band
Drummers
Tom Mewett – School Drum Tutor
Drum Major Max Coupland, Year 11
Drum Sergeant – Damon Wright, Year 11
Josh Niuila, Year 12
Storm Tanavasu, Year 11
Eddie Butko, Year 7
Ewan Douglas, Year 7
Shanaaya Chowdhry, Year 7
Arifa Rizvi, Year 10
Emma Delbridge, Year 11
Kyle Blane-Brown, Class of 2018
Ellen Ring, Class of 2018
Tim Koschitzke, Class of 2017
Madeleine Hedderwick, Class of 2015
Main photo: The band at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
Weaver’s Cottage, where Kilbarchan weavers still make textiles on a 200-year-old working handloom, is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2023. Weaver’s Cottage is one of over 100 special places in the care of the National Trust for Scotland (NTS) , ranging from castles to gardens to National Nature Reserves such as Glencoe and Staffa. Although perhaps modest in scale compared to some of these places, Weaver’s Cottage tells important and fascinating stories about textile production and its part in Scotland’s economic, social and cultural history.
The 18th century weavers from this Renfrewshire cottage would be astonished to discover that their lives and work are attracting the interest of the Scottish Parliament, as well as visitors from all over the world. The cottage was recently the subject of a parliamentary motion in the Scottish Parliament, submitted by the local MSP, that celebrates ‘that this cherished piece of local history and Kilbarchan heritage is preserved, and hopes that Weaver’s Cottage will continue to be visited and learned about for years to come’.
Hand-woven textiles were the lifeblood of many communities
A 200-year-old wooden hand loom.
Ana Sanchez-de la Vega, Visitor Services Manager for Weaver’s Cottage, explains: “The displays at the cottage transport our visitors back to a time when hand-woven textiles were the lifeblood of many communities. At one point in the 19th century, the village of Kilbarchan was home to over 800 weavers, living and working at looms in cottages such as this.” Ana continues: “At Weaver’s Cottage – where weavers still make tartan today on a 200-year-old handloom – we offer a window into those times, helping people relate to the lives and stories of that community, whose tartans and textiles have stood the test of time. It’s thanks to the support of our National Trust for Scotland members, donors, volunteers and visitors that we are able to conserve this special place, and share its stories and textiles for new generations today.”
Weaver’s Cottage was built in 1723 and remained in use as a home until 1940. It has been in the care of the National Trust for Scotland since 1957. To mark the 300th anniversary of the building of the cottage, NTS have added a new garden and video interpretation. This helps visitors to delve deeper into the history and significance of the cottage and the weaving industry, in alignment with the NTS wide objective to provide access to, and enjoyment of, heritage for everyone.
Also this year, NTS have loaned textiles from the cottage’s collections, including tartan samples and a quilt, to the Tartan exhibition at V&A Dundee.
Text and images are courtesy of the National Trust for Scotland. For more information on the Trust or to help them protect Scotland’s heritage see: www.nts.org.uk.
The Scottish North America Community Conference (SNACC) will take place in person in New York, and online, over the weekend of December 1st and 2nd in Alexandria, VA. Celebrating its 21st year of this annual conference of leading members of the Scottish American Diaspora, this year the conference will discuss ‘How our history and community, empowers our future’. Through a series of discussions, we hope to help us all address this important issue. Charles, Lord Bruce, will open the conference speaking of The Scottish Clans Heirs Project, the initiative is led by the Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs and headed up Lord Bruce. Ethan MacDonald, Regional Commissioner, Council of Scottish Clans & Associations (COSCA); Member of Council, Clan Donald Society, USA – and founder, Scottish-American Scouting Association, Kalamazoo, MI (via Zoom) and Cameron Steer, American Scottish Foundation (ASF) Youth Ambassadors and Youth Sports Empowerment coach will be joined by others in opening up this discussion. As we look to bring on our young leaders of tomorrow, we have to recognize their challenges and COSCA and CASSOC leaders, John Bellassai and William Petrie joining the discussion. Rory Hedderly, Head of Business Development (USA) – Entrepreneurial Scotland and Saltire Foundation will join Gus Noble and Stuart Adam, Scottish Connections Fund, to discuss the importance of experience programs helping in developing our Young Ambassadors and through the Scottish university alumni network strengthen the message of Scots in America. The Friday session will conclude with a whisky tasting and reception.
Following the Alexandria Christmas Walk on the Saturday SNACC invites attendees to join for a light buffet, the afternoon session will begin with greetings from:
Chris Thomson – Scottish Gov’t Counselor for the USA & Head Scottish Gov’t Office, UK Embassy, Washington, DC
Congressman Myer, representing Alexandria, VA (a Scottish-American and member of House Scottish Caucus)
Campbell Lord Provost of Dundee
Madam Pauline Hunter of Hunterston, 30th Chief of Clan Hunter
It is one year since the passing of HM Queen Elizabeth II and a central figure throughout those days and the subsequent Coronation of King Charles III was Dr John Morrow, Lord Lyon, King of Arms. Lyon will share a unique insight into the past year. Stepping back to Scotland and America in the later part of the 18th century. James P. Ambuske, PhD, Professor of History, James Mason University, Fairfax, VA (specializes in Scotland & America, 18th century) will speak of the Scottish experience on the eve of the American Revolution and the loyalist immigration to Canada. We then return to today, to importance of collaboration and a great example of collaboration at work in the Washington Metro Area with: Gregory Haymon, President, St. Andrew’s Society of Washington, DC
Heather McKenzie Haddock, Co-Chair, Scottish American Women’s Society (SAWS)
Alexandra Duncan, Vice President, Virginia Scottish Games & Festivals Ass’n (VSGA)
James Morrison, Secretary & Past President, National Capital Tartan Day Committee, Inc. (NCTDC)
Camilla Hellman, ASF President will report on upcoming highlights in Scotland 2024 from Dunfermline to Glasgow, to festival highlights and museum plans. The Conference concludes with a mix and mingle reception with light refreshments and cash bar.
The Lonach Highland and Friendly Society was formed 200 years ago in 1823- the Society host one of Scotland’s most popular, and friendly, Highland Games. The Lonach Highland Gathering and Games have taken place annually for 180 year each August when all roads lead to Lonach, as Anne-Mary Paterson explains.
It was 26th August, 2023 and the loudspeaker was telling everyone that there was to be a very special guest arriving before the one o’clock March of the Lonach Men. This year is the two hundredth anniversary of the founding of the Lonach Highland and Friendly Society and the one hundred and eightieth gathering of what is probably the most unique and friendly Highland Games. Into the arena to huge cheers and applause, came a dark red Bentley car bearing His Majesty King Charles III. After circling the area, the King alighted at a special tent. Then the sound of bagpipes started getting louder and louder. In marched the Highlanders carrying axes and with banners held high, followed by the Lonach Pipe Band, then Sir James Forbes, Patron and the swirling kilts of the Lonach Men, carrying eight-foot-long pikes followed by Wallace’s and Gordons.
At the tail end of this most unusual procession was the Cairt drawn by Socks, an Irish cob to carry any wear or dare I say it drunken stragglers but empty this year. The march had set off early in the morning for six miles on foot from Bellabeg, home of the gathering, up Donside to toast five houses along the way and then back to Bellabeg for a private lunch in the Lonach Hall. One of the houses they visit is Candacraig which before its sale, was owned by Sir Billy Connolly who was very fond of the Lonach and attended most years.
Preservation of Highland garb
The Forbes Highlanders.
By 1823 Scotland had emerged from the years of occupation by the Hanoverian Army after the Jacobite defeat at the Battle of Culloden. It was time for Scotland to resume its place in the world. That same year King George IV awarded Charles Forbes of Newe and Edinglassie (1774 – 1839) with a baronetcy. On 15th December of that same year, his son’s coming-of-age was celebrated with a bonfire on Lonach Hill which inspired the people around and in Donside to set up a friendly society as had been done by its neighbour in Braemar. The first gathering was held in 1836, four years after Braemar. Membership for the society is now drawn from the inhabitants of Strathdon, Sir Charles was one of eleven children. He left Edinburgh University when he was sixteen to take up a post in Bombay, India in John Forbes & Co owned by his uncle John Forbes. The firm had originally traded in raw cotton but over the years expanded into ship brokerage, ship building and as bankers to the Government of Bombay. Because of the success of his business, John was able to buy back the family lands of Newe and Bellabeg, which in the past had been lost due to bankruptcy.
The gathering is always on the fourth Saturday in August. Sir James Forbes of the Newe, three times great grandson of Sir Charles said in his message this year, “The Gathering and our unique March represent the public face of our year-round commitment to the ‘preservation of Highland garb and the promotion of social and friendly feelings among the inhabitants of the district’. Encountering the Lonach Highlanders for the first time takes you back to pre-1745 Scotland, but this is no historical re-enactment: we represent an unbroken link with our forefathers.”
Highland Games may date as far back as the 11th century when King Malcolm III of Scotland needed a personal courier so he organised a hill race to the summit of Creag Choinnich, near Braemar, where the oldest Highland Games were first held in 1832, and since then always on the first Saturday in September. The Braemar Highland Society was founded in 1815, so the Lonach is not far behind its neighbour in Deeside. Like Braemar and many other games, the Lonach carries on the tradition of a hill race and even a shorter one for juniors. Hill races are now a feature of many games and we can imagine that before cars, if a horse was not available and someone was needed to take a message quickly up or down a glen, a race was an easiest way to find and have in hand the fasted of foot. Similarly tossing the caber may have resembled how a tree just felled was pushed away. Tartan and bagpipes are still very important components of the games. One of first ideas was the preservation of the district’s particular dialect of Gaelic but this has not been successful, and it is now extinct. Traditional Highland Games are now held all over the world, particularly in English speaking countries like Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the United States of America.
The Lonach Highlanders
Lonach Pipe Band.
The Lonach Highlanders is not an army as it has never been presented with colours like the Atholl Highlanders, its neighbour across the mountain passes. It does carry the society colour and two banners ensigned “LONACH”. On the 150th anniversary of the Lonach, a new colour and banners were presented at the Lonach Gathering. The following week the pipe band and the Highlanders marched over the hills to Braemar to present the new colours to the late Queen Elizabeth II at the Braemar Gathering. The Highlanders set up camp at Braemar Castle re-enacting an occasion that last happened during the reign of Queen Victoria. At the time of the presentation on 5th July 2023 of the Honours of Scotland (the Crown, Sceptre and Sword) to King Charles in St Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh, the Lonach Highlanders along with the Atholl Highlanders marched down the Royal Mile.
Carrying on the Royal connections, King Charles, after watching the Lonach Highlanders’ impressive and unique parade, spoke to a number of officials and other folk before progressing on foot across the arena to become the starter of one of the first races. After a private luncheon at Bellabeg House, the King left quietly for Balmoral Castle with the usual events – light and heavy, dancing, races and piping continuing. A special day to add to the already colourful history of this unique organisation.
The Aberdeen University scientist pioneered the creation of insulin in the 1920s, which has saved millions of lives of those with diabetes, as Neil Drysdale reports.
It’s a discovery which has saved and enhanced the lives of at least 350 million people during the last 100 years. Prior to its creation, countless children, diagnosed with the condition, were left facing a death sentence as their parents looked on helplessly. They could be made to feel comfortable, but medical staff could do nothing more to ease their plight. And yet, the chances are that few will be aware of the prominent role played by a Perthshire-born, Aberdeen-educated scientist in the development and production of insulin, one of the most significant achievements in the history of medical research. That’s because John Macleod was effectively airbrushed out of history for half a century. He was accused of hogging the limelight, of claiming credit for work carried out by other people when he was actually the catalyst for a remarkable breakthrough. And when he left Toronto, where the insulin breakthrough was made, he is said to have been seen shuffling at the station and explained: “I’m wiping away the dirt of this city.”
But thankfully, if belatedly, his reputation has been restored, and a memorial statue of the great man was recently unveiled in Aberdeen’s Duthie Park. It’s no more than he deserves, because Macleod, a beetle-browed, intellectually brilliant fellow, was at the forefront of the trailblazing work which transformed the battle against diabetes after years of trials and tribulations, disappointments and disputes. Professor Brian Frier, of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh, and an internationally-recognised specialist in diabetes, said: “The discovery of insulin is frequently and inaccurately attributed to Frederick Banting and Charles Best and, for decades, Macleod was effectively airbrushed out of medical history. The importance of the research of this quiet and self-effacing Scottish scientist cannot be over-estimated and he deserves to be as well-known to the public as Sir Alexander Fleming for his discovery of penicillin.” Soon after his birth in 1876, his clergyman father, Robert, returned to Aberdeen and the youngster, who always adopted the approach that genius was an infinite capacity for taking pains, subsequently attended Aberdeen Grammar School and entered Marischal College at Aberdeen University to study medicine from 1893 to 1898.
Macleod worked until the sma’ hours
A new statue of John Macleod in Aberdeen. Photography courtesy of Neil Gordon at aberdeenphoto.com.
Much of the focus of Macleod’s life has centred on his work in Canada, but he was an apprentice physiologist in Leipzig and studied in his home city and in London, learning to teach and write textbooks and amassing the experience which were the catalyst for later partnerships with colleagues which yielded prodigious rewards in the early 1920s. There are different perspectives on Macleod’s personality and how he interacted with others. It’s clear that he didn’t suffer fools gladly and was always the last person out of the laboratory in his early days while he was pouring himself into his work. A serious-minded figure, he continued to pursue an academic career with a dedication which made him a great scientist, but not always the easiest human being to deal with in his day-to-day business. The driven Scot was director of physiology at Toronto University, but there was no Eureka moment as he settled down to his work. This was real life, not a Hollywood biopic, so the building blocks of the new discoveries which changed the world for the better were only created after myriad hours in laboratories. Dr Ken McHardy, a former consultant in diabetes with NHS Grampian and honorary senior lecturer at Aberdeen University, has studied his career in depth and acknowledges that Macleod’s journey towards insulin was long and meticulous. It included both experience with many traditional techniques to study animal physiology and his expertise in the up-and-coming specialty of physiological chemistry.
He told Aberdeen’s Press & Journal: “His research into experimental diabetes, first stimulated by working on a book chapter, led to several advances over 15 years of painstaking study. This put him at the forefront of world knowledge on the subject and with all of the necessary skills and experience to lead a major breakthrough. However, hundreds of researchers had been trying, and so far uniformly failing, to produce a treatment that could save diabetic lives. Despite work suggesting the pancreas gland may be the source of an important internal secretion, even this was unproven.”
Few could have predicted the spectacular results which would materialise when he joined forces with students Banting and Best. Following their collaboration, Macleod received a Nobel Prize along with Banting, although he and the latter fell out over their contrasting claims of who had contributed most to the discovery. It was an acrimonious climax to what had been an often fractious relationship between the pair and Macleod, unaccustomed to having to prove his credentials when he had demonstrated his excellence in Britain, Europe and North America, was understandably aggrieved at the ill-feeling which festered between the group. At the end of 1920, the well-respected Macleod was approached by Banting, a young Canadian physician, who possessed a bull-headed drive and industrious – if often ill-considered – attitude to the research which later brought him fame. He was a persuasive individual and even though Banting had virtually no experience of physiology, convinced Macleod to lend him laboratory space. The Scot also provided experimental animals and the assistance of his summer student, Best.
Banting and Best isolated an internal secretion of the pancreas and reduced the blood sugar level of a dog, whose pancreas had been surgically removed. They were excited, but Macleod expressed doubts about the results, borne from his greater experience. Eventually, Banting accepted his elder’s instruction that further experiments were required before they could reach any definite conclusion, and even convinced Macleod to provide better working conditions and give him and Best a salary. The next stage of their research was successful and the trio started to present their work at scientific meetings, which gradually built up momentum and publicity. Macleod was a far better orator than his associate and Banting came to believe that he wanted to take all the credit for their efforts. But this notion was nonsense, as was demonstrated when the results were published in the February 1922 issue of the Journal of Laboratory and Clinical Medicine.
Tensions ran high in the group
Indeed, the Scot actually declined co-authorship because he considered it was Banting and Best’s work: hardly the attitude of a man who desired to hog the spotlight. And yet, perhaps understandably, he was growing weary of the paranoia in the laboratory when, as he told colleagues privately, the priority surely had to be creating something which would save the lives of millions of people. And there also remained the issue of how to get enough pancreas extract to continue the experiments. This convinced Macleod to extend his insulin research and recruit the biochemist James Collip to help with purifying the extract. Whereupon, significant progress was made after a trip to a local abattoir when they realised that pancreas extracts could be much more simply produced from fresh ox pancreas. It was slow, methodical work, and Banting felt sidelined the longer it advanced. By the winter of 1922, this fragile character was certain that all Macleod’s colleagues were conspiring against him and Collip, who was increasingly frustrated with the tension in the laboratory, and threatened to leave because of the strained atmosphere. Yet, amid these tensions, there was progress. In January 1922, the team performed a clinical trial on 13-year-old Leonard Thompson and it was soon followed by others. As the news spread, so did the publicity about what had been achieved in Toronto. This was no dry scientific experiment; it was a life-changing discovery in the making and the sensationalist nature of the coverage reflected that sense of history being made.
Macleod’s presentation at a meeting of the Association of American Physicians in Washington on May 3 1922 received a standing ovation from the audience, because it appeared to indicate a major breakthrough was imminent, but obstacles still lay ahead. At that time, demonstrations of the method’s efficiency attracted huge public interest, because the effect on patients, especially children with type 1 diabetes, who until then were bound to die, seemed almost miraculous. Macleod was always proud of his part in the process. But, perhaps understandably, he had grown weary of the egos battling for supremacy behind the scenes. He returned to Scotland in 1928 to become Regius Professor of Physiology at Aberdeen University and later became Dean of the University of Aberdeen Medical Faculty, where he continued to show his prowess in collaborative science, producing original research in tandem with colleagues at the Rowett Institute and in support of the Torry Fishery Research Station, while taking an advisory role to the Government’s Privy Council.
He encouraged scores of youngsters
Physician and medical historian Dr Ken McHardy, Lord Dean of Guild Sylvia Halkerston, Sculptor John McKenna’s wife & studio assistant Claire McKenna, architectural technologist Kevin Otto, Lady Provost Hazel Cameron, Vice-Chancellor and Principal George Boyne of the University of Aberdeen, Lord Provost of Aberdeen, Dr David Cameron and sculptor John McKenna. (seated left to right) Kimberlie Hamilton, Co-Founder of the JJR Macleod Memorial Statue Society & John Otto, Founder & Chairman of the JJR Macleod Memorial Statue Society. Photography courtesy of Neil Gordon at aberdeenphoto.com
Perhaps, just as importantly, he was renowned for his mentoring of a number of noted young scientists and engaged in prestigious lectureships on both sides of the Atlantic. All this, despite the debilitating impact of rheumatoid arthritis, which had first affected him in Toronto and progressively limited his ability to travel and to work. Dr McHardy, who has been advising the Macleod Memorial Statue Society for the last two years said: “Nothing should detract from the magnificent contributions of Aberdeen’s only homegrown Nobel Prize winner. We should remember and celebrate his reputation as a world-famous physiologist and educator with pride. He should, of course, always be revered for his single greatest contribution as the skilled and experienced impresario who led the Toronto team. Macleod’s leadership not only gave the world its first clinically useful insulin in 1922, but led the way to survival for millions with what is now known as Type 1 diabetes, and indeed existence, itself, for their descendants.”
This towering figure in his field died in 1935, aged just 58, and is buried in Aberdeen’s Allenvale Cemetery, across Great Southern Road from where the new statue will offer a permanent tribute to his feats. The sculpture shows him reading the pages of the Press & Journal and, although he spent years in Canada, he always considered Aberdeen to be his home. Aberdeen University also dedicated the 2023 Carnegie Lecture to the impact of the former medical student on the treatment of diabetes and a blue plaque will be erected to commemorate his legacy. Celebrating 100 Years of the ‘Discovery of Insulin’ Nobel Prize, was held in October, and explored Macleod’s remarkable achievement with international diabetes expert Professor C. Ronald Kahn. At long last, the world is paying him proper attention.
Words by Neil Drysdale. Main image: University of Aberdeen.
Many ex-pat Scots will have flown from Prestwick Airport in Ayrshire to start new lives in the United States and Canada and for many the airport holds a special place in their heart. The same will apply to the thousands of US and Canadian servicemen who transited through Prestwick during both World War 2 and the Cold War era as well as those who were actually based at the airfield. In this short article, local enthusiast, Allan Mackintosh outlines the history of the airfield from the first recorded early aviation activity in 1913 through to the present day.
A Pan-Am DC 6.
The first recorded aviation activity at Prestwick was recorded in July 1913 when three Royal Flying Corps BE.2a biplanes who were supporting Territorial Army manoeuvres at Gailes just up the coast, used the Monkton ‘Meadows’ as a landing ground in between sorties. After this event there is no official recorded activity through the 1920s with most aviation activity being centred at the airstrip at Ayr Racecourse. However, with the increase in aviation activity in the early 1930s and in particular with pleasure flights from Renfrew to the beaches of Prestwick and Ayr there was the odd occasion that a plane set off from Renfrew only to find the beach at Prestwick had the tide in and as it couldn’t land, used the fields of the Monkton Meadows as a relief landing ground. It was also during this period that Midland & Scottish Air Ferries started to use Monkton as a diversionary landing ground for Renfrew, when fog and low cloud regularly closed the Glasgow airfield. This was the start of the realisation that Monkton (soon to be renamed Prestwick) offered a safe haven for passenger and mail aircraft on a regular basis given the excellent weather record of the area. This resulted in the airfield becoming a fully licensed aerodrome in 1934.
The year before in 1933, two young pilots, David McIntyre, and Douglas Douglas-Hamilton members of No.602 City of Glasgow Auxiliary Air Force Squadron, were one of a pair of aircraft to be the first to successfully fly over Mount Everest. Both men had experience of flying into the Monkton Meadows and David McIntyre, in particular, had a real passion for the airfield to be developed further. After evaluating several local sites, McIntyre, and Douglas-Hamilton, in conjunction with the De Havilland company, set up Scottish Aviation Ltd, based initially around an ‘Elementary Flying School’ training pilots and navigators for the Royal Air Force. The ‘new’ airfield was built just beside the Monkton Meadows close to Orangefield House, which was later to become Prestwick’s first true passenger terminal. (The first ‘terminal’ was actually a Midland & Scottish Transport bus which kept diverted passengers dry and warm whilst awaiting their limousine transport back to Renfrew!)
International airfield
Orangefield Hotel Terminal.
With the advent of World War 2 in 1939, Prestwick grew from being a small training airfield to a fully functioning international airfield, becoming the preferred landing ground for many aircraft entering the war arena from the US and Canada. Between 1941 and 1945, 37,000 aircraft movements were recorded. Initially RAF Aldergrove (now Belfast International) was the preferred landing ground for the ‘Atlantic Ferry Organisation’ but with Prestwick having a better weather record, the Ayrshire airfield was finally chosen as the preferred airfield. With the increase in aircraft activity, there was also an increase in aircraft related maintenance, repair, and conversion work so Scottish Aviation’s work grew to the extent that new hangers and buildings had to be erected quickly to cater for the increase in work. The main hanger (which is still in place today, along with most of the wartime hangers) was affectionally known as ‘The Palace’ (and still is) and this is the Palace of Engineering which took pride of place at the Glasgow Empire Exhibition in Glasgow’s Bellahouston Park in 1938. The building was moved to Prestwick ‘brick by brick’ over a four-month period between April and September 1940 and still stands proudly overseeing today’s international airport.
Post war airline passenger travel through the airport started once again from 1946. In the post war years, Prestwick was afforded ‘transatlantic’ status and initially was one of only two UK airports (the other being the new London-Heathrow) to be allowed this status. From Prestwick there were regular flights to and from the US and Canada and the airport proved to be a great staging post for flights from France, Belgium, Holland, and Scandinavia. Prestwick’s Orangefield terminal offered a service second to none and was the first UK Airport to offer duty-free. At this time London Heathrow was an unsightly mass of temporary huts!
Elvis Presley at Prestwick in 1960.
In 1955, the military returned to the airfield in the form of the United States Air Force with a major base at Prestwick and Elvis Presley visited in 1960 for a brief stopover and this made the airport the only place where he set foot in the UK (there are claims that Elvis was also secretly in London but it was obviously so secret that there is no physical evidence of this!)
Scottish Aviation remained a world-leader is aircraft maintenance and aircraft design and manufacturing commences with the Prestwick Pioneer. This leads to the manufacture of the Twin Pioneer in the late 1950s and in later years (60s through to the early 90s) the company produces the successful Jetstream family of commuter airliners, and the equally successful Bulldog, a military basic trainer.
With the introduction of the jet-age in the late 1950s, Prestwick had to expand to keep pace and the main runway was extended to 9800ft and a new secondary runway was built to the south-west of the airfield. A new terminal building, freight building, control tower and loop road around the airport was built, with sadly, the old Orangefield terminal being demolished to make way for a new parallel taxiway. The runway extension was actually implemented to serve the US Air Force and it conforms to the standard US military specification of the day. This is one of very few runways in the UK to do so and still to this day one it is of the longest. This enables Prestwick to be able to handle the world’s largest freighters with full loads and was one of the factors leading to the frequent Concorde training flights in the 70s.
The World O’er
Prestwick Airport spectators terrace.
During the late 80s and early 90s, with the expansion of the airports at Glasgow and Edinburgh, Prestwick’s monopoly became under threat and ultimately ‘Open Skies’ was introduced to allow airports to compete. With Glasgow’s and Edinburgh’s airports now able to accommodate the large passenger jets (as well as being on the outskirts of the cities), in time, all transatlantic passenger airlines moved to the city airports. This left Prestwick in a perilous position and with the owner, the British Airports Authority (BAA), also owning Glasgow and Edinburgh, the airport looked doomed, with property developers lining up to offer to buy the site and redevelop it for housing and industrial units. However, a dynamic group of investors, led by a Canadian lawyer, Mathew Hudson, supported by the boss of British Aerospace, Alan Macdonald, saved the day by ‘persuading’ BAA to sell them the airport. Whilst BAA were reluctant to sell to a ‘competitor’, there was a clause in the 99-year lease given to Scottish Aviation that stipulated that the airport runways could not be sold unless Scottish Aviation (now British Aerospace) allowed it. As British Aerospace needed the runways for their flying college and for the demonstration and testing of their Jetstreams, they were not for giving the runways up!
A Wardair Canada DC-10, 1980s.
The airport was now under new dynamic ownership and from 2004 went from strength to strength as a result of new investment (including the airport’s own rail station) and also due to the low-cost airline revolution. The airport hit 2.5 million passengers per annum in 2006 although, once again, Glasgow and Edinburgh increased their competition practices, with the result that Prestwick’s main airline, Ryanair moved some services to both Glasgow and Edinburgh. Today Prestwick handles close to 800,000 passengers per annum although passenger incomes are now only a fraction of the airport’s main income with property rentals, maintenance, technical stops, cargo, training, and refuelling bring in most revenue. The airport at present has returned to its military roots with the Royal Canadian Air Force maintaining a base there and the Air Forces of the US, Oman, Abu Dhabi, UAE, Kuwait, and Israel using the airport for fuel and overnight stops. Cargo volumes remain strong, with regular cargo schedules maintained by Cargolux and Air France.
Preswick as an air force base, 2023.
Today, The airport is owned by the Scottish Government, who see the facility as an important infrastructure asset that helps to support in excess of 4,000 jobs in the West of Scotland. It’s the heart of Scotland’s aerospace industry, with over 50% of the country’s aerospace workforce employed at Prestwick, offering a diverse range of aviation services, and providing vital connections to the rest of the world. Next stop – space!
The motto of Scottish Aviation ‘The World O’er’ remains as strong today as it did in 1935.
Allan Mackintosh has started Prestwick Aviation Tours to bring the amazing and fascinating story of Prestwick to life. At present, there are short walking tours of a portion of the perimeter of the airfield, where Allan guides the tourists through the story of the airfield from 1913 to the present day. There are plans for a virtual tour to be up and running in 2024 so that the many ex-pats and service personnel who flew to and from Prestwick can experience the airfield’s story. Allan can be contacted on +44 (0) 776 416 8989 or via email [email protected] The website is: https://prestwickaviationtours.com
Main photo: A Trans-Canada Air Lines, DC-8 at Prestwick, 1960s.
Piper Doug McRae, was the oldest member of The Scots School Albury Pipe Band at 66 years old and Saxon Coffey was the youngest of three 12-year-olds from the school band, making him the youngest member of the 29-strong playing group in Scotland. Doug originally played with Scots Pipe Band coordinator Scott Nicolson nearly 30 years ago when the pair was both working in New Zealand. Doug returned to Albury around the same time Nicolson started at The Scots School Albury in 2013 so it was a natural progression that Doug would reunite with his old buddy to bolster the student group.
Doug learned the pipes as a student of Knox Grammar School in Sydney and found it a satisfying way to make social connections whenever he moved to a new city. As a CEO of Private Hospitals, Doug moved around a bit, but has settled in Albury and is now retired. In fact, he retired in 2017, just in time to accompany the Scots band to its inaugural appearance at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. “I love playing in the band with the students,” Doug said. “The kids are a great bunch, and we see an awful lot of each other as we prepare for the Tattoo. It was a real experience to perform at the Tattoo in 2017. It was very busy because we played in a number of other events while we were there, so we had to learn a lot of tunes. We had the contest tunes and the Tattoo tunes to learn, as we did this time around. It’s very rewarding to help these youngsters on the big stage of the Tattoo.”
Saxon is a Year 7 student who has been playing the pipes for three years and is a natural musician, having mastered the trumpet and piano as well. Saxon found the pipes fairly easy to learn initially but admits there is a lot of practise required as the number of tunes they needed to learn for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo and the band’s other commitments at the Scottish Pipe Band Championships, the World Pipe Band Championships and Piping Live in Glasgow mounted up. “I do a lot of practise at home as well as at school,” Saxon confided. “The neighbours so far haven’t come knocking on my door to ask me to stop so I must be going ok.” Saxon, whose favourite tune is Sweet Maid, said the nurturing nature of the band is one of the best things about the group. “The older students are very supportive, and I’ve learnt a lot from them. It’s fun to be part of the group.”
Scotland, my homeland and the country which I love to paint. There, inspiration greets me at every turn. Highlands, islands, lowlands – every corner of ‘Caledonia’ provides subject matter for my canvases – but I am drawn, time and time again, to the Outer Hebrides. This bejewelled string of islands stretches 130 miles from the Butt of Lewis, south to the uninhabited wildlife haven of Mingulay. Lewis and Harris (of the eponymous tweed!), Benbecula, the Uists, Eriskay (where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed to lead the ill- fated Jacobite Rebellion) and Barra with its causeway to Vatersay.
An archipelago which forms the last point of civilization between the Scottish mainland and the Americas. Betimes cosseted by the Gulf Stream or relentlessly battered by Atlantic gales, these islands of contrast boast some of the world’s most beautiful beaches – sands of myriad shades and crystalline waters in vivid green and turquoise hues.
The artisit.
This year I was honoured to be asked to stage an exhibition of my paintings on the island of Barra. In June 2023 the island’s Heritage Centre hosted the Centenary Homecoming to mark 100 years since many families on Barra and neighbouring Vatersay left their homes for the promise of a better life in Canada. Post-war, the islands’ herring industry had all but disappeared, work was impossible to find and poverty was rife. Tempted by the lure of rich farmland or well-paid jobs on the Canadian Pacific Railroad, entire households shipped away to the Prairies. Whilst some forged successful new lives others found nothing but disappointment and continuing hardship.
The descendants of these brave emigrants made their pilgrimage to the Homecoming to learn of the life and times of their forebears and where possible to visit the ruins of their ancestors’ humble dwellings. For many, the trip was their first visit to Scotland. For some, it was the very first time they had journeyed from their homes in Canada. For everyone that I met it was an emotional connection with their pasts. Stories tumbled out, family histories were shared – and more than a few tears were shed. The Heritage Centre in Barra’s Castlebay holds a wealth of information about these exiled islanders and an excellent collection of photographs and memorabilia – well worth a visit!
A little part of Scotland in every painting
As I travel, in search of inspiration for my art, I try to collect a tiny pinch of sand and some drops of water from the scene I hope to capture. These elements are incorporated in each canvas, to put a little part of Scotland in every painting. My notebook will record a few paragraphs which, when I return to my studio in France, will bring images back to me in even sharper focus than my camera. Sometimes I will develop these notes into a piece of descriptive prose which accompanies the painting and hopefully enhances the pleasure of ownership for the buyer:
‘Perhaps a little bay, framed by a tumble of rocks dumped by time’s glacial bulldozer – grey, black, brown and shot through with specks of glittering quartz. Or a sweeping ‘Traigh’ – a perfect crescent of pristine sand. There, a scatter of white painted houses gazing towards the sea which, in its giving and taking down the millennia, has shaped these islands and their peoples.
Maybe today, nature’s scene shifters will challenge my canvas by changing the vista a dozen times or more. Once a blue and listless sky, then suddenly a scurry of wispy clouds will enter from stage left in a merry dance. Lowering storm heads might roll in, with only a follow- spot of sunlight to illuminate a squadron of oystercatchers – wings flittering urgently as they head for shelter.
Then, when evening comes, the sun – its day’s work done – will sweep majestically from the scene, scattering tints of rose and peach, purple and orange and a cadmium red so vivid that the horizon seems to smoulder.
Darkness falls, a contented stillness settles and the rippling applause of waves on shore closes another world class performance’.
So, here in France, as winter approaches, the log fire will be lit and my memory will be aglow with recollections of this year’s travels – island visits, exhibitions staged, acquaintances made and old friends revisited. This artist, inspired by Scotland, will pick up his brushes and his pen- and hope to do justice to his beautiful homeland.
Warlocks and Witches in a Dance, wood carving by Thomas Hall Tweedy.
Robert Burns is at his best when dealing with the supernatural folklore of his native 18th century Scotland, and nowhere is this more apparent than in his narrative epic Tam o’ Shanter. The 224-line poem is a reimagining of an old tale from Burns’ youth about what happens to a farmer in the early hours riding past haunted Alloway Kirk. “There’s a beautiful wood carving that Thomas Hall Tweedy made in 1860, called Warlocks and Witches in a Dance, that takes its name from a line in Tam o’ Shanter”, says Lauren McKenzie, Functions and Events Manager at Robert Burns Birthplace Museum. “It’s one of a set of four lime-wood carvings on display at the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum that depicts the central scene in the poem where Tam reaches Kirk Alloway and is stopped in his tracks.” Thomas Hall Tweedy based the piece on a contemporary engraving by artist John Faed. Both artworks capture the humour evident in Tam o’ Shanter, as well as the more gruesome elements of the goings-on in the kirk.
Pumpkins galore
The pumpkins that you will see adorning the battlements of Castle Fraser at this time of year, in the orchard of Leith Hall, or that you’ll find have been made into delicious soup in the cafe at Fyvie Castle, are actually grown on site. “Our properties grow a range of varieties of pumpkins from year to year, from small eating and storing types to large ornamental varieties for pumpkin carving. Some years we have a bumper crop, but every year is different.” says Garden and Designed Landscape Manager Chris Wardle. Some of the varieties grown include Atlantic Giant which is perfect for carving, Summer Sunburst and Patty Pan Green Tint for ornamental use, and Turks Turban and Uchiki Kuri for soups and storing.
Black cat
David Brodie and Alfonso at Brodie Castle.
Black cats have long been associated with Hallowe’en but one dark feline, named Alfonso, was a friendly family pet at Brodie Castle in the early years of the 20th century. A black and white photographic print from the collection at Brodie Castle, dating to around 1909, shows a young David Brodie (aged around four years old) with Alfonso. “The cat would have belonged to David’s mother, Violet May Hope, who was a big animal lover, she had lots of cats throughout her life and was particularly fond of cats and dogs”, says Jamie Barron, Visitor Experience Supervisor at Brodie Castle. “We have copies of the albums that Violet kept of her photographs, of which this is one. The albums are on display for visitors to flick through in the castle. It’s rather sad because within a couple of years of the photograph being taken, David died of diphtheria.” On tours of the castle, visitors are taken into is a bedroom where Violet, who married the 24th laird Ian Brodie, kept a collection of toads. Visitors hear all about Violet and her pets and the walls are adorned with photographs of Brodie pets from over the years.
Ghostly sightings
The strongroom at Culross Palace.
To protect the original floor tiles in the strongroom at Culross Palace it is cordoned off to visitors, who instead stand behind a rope to see into the place where George Bruce, the richest man in the area, kept his papers and valuables. Dating back to 1597, the narrow room has three-foot thick stone walls and had two heavy iron doors that could be bolted from the inside. It was also designed with a clever slanted entranceway to deter intruders and stop them from pulling out a sword. Not surprisingly it was supposedly cannonball and fire-proof. Visitors might have to stand at the doorway, but that hasn’t stopped some unusual ghostly goings-on being reported in the room over the years. Staff at the property remember a five-year-old girl who went under the rope, stood at the desk and was laughing and joking – with no one. “A guide came in and asked her who she was speaking to. She said, “The man with the hairy face and the funny white thing around his neck.” She was taken to the portrait of George Bruce, and she started waving at him and smiling” says Linda Whiteford, Visitor Services Supervisor at Culross. “One of our guides went into the strong room to set up battery-operated candles, and the quills in a pewter pot on the desk were whirling round and round. She thought it was the draught from her jacket, so went out and came in again. It didn’t make any difference.”
Hebridean Hallowe’en
Through film and photography, the Hallowe’en traditions of South Uist were documented by Margaret Fay Shaw in the 1930s. Contained in the archive at Canna House, Shaw’s images form a rare record of guisers in sheepskin garb with haystack wigs and rope scarves. It wasn’t just at Hallowe’en when islanders believed there were spirits afoot. For hundreds of years a legend swirled around Canna about Coroghon Castle, also known as Coroghon Prison. “A painting of the castle by Richard Doyle featured in the book Canna: The Story of a Hebridean Island by Shaw’s husband, the renowned Gaelic folklorist John Lorne Campbell. Doyle visited Canna in 1875 on the Viscount Sherbrooke’s yacht,” says Fiona Mackenzie, Canna House archivist and manager. “The story goes that Marion Macleod, the wife of Donald Macdonald of Clanranald, known as Dòmhnall Dubh na Cuthaige (Black Donald of the Cuckoo), had an affair. Macdonald was born in about 1625 and fought in Montrose’s army in the Civil War. He married Marion in 1666. When Macdonald found out about the affair, he locked his wife up in in the castle for the rest of her life. Supposedly on a calm moonlit night you can still hear her wailing and crying to be released. Personally, I think that might be the sound of the seals.”
Text and images are courtesy of the National Trust for Scotland. For more information on the Trust or to help them protect Scotland’s heritage see: www.nts.org.uk.
The annals of Scottish history are filled with high drama, triumphs, tragedies, and countless great stories which echo through the ages. Social revolutions, grand set-piece battles, globe-spanning adventures, acts of heroism against all odds – it’s all there, and we all have favourites we recount and revisit again and again. That said, history is the collective story of humanity, and for every epic event there are a thousand flukes, farces, and oddities which capture the often surreal and baffling nature of our earthly existence. Here, for your amusement, are just a few of the eyebrow-raising incidents I’ve encountered recently in archives and antiquarian sources.
A seismic agitation on Loch Tay
Loch Tay.
We don’t often think of Scotland as being particularly affected by earthquakes. Floods and snowstorms are more our style. Yet, something strange happened on Loch Tay on 12 September 1784 which observers described as otherwise inexplicable “violent agitations”. A letter from a Mr Fleming details the extent of the disturbance near Kenmore: “…the water was observed to retire about 5 yards within its ordinary boundary, and in 4 or 5 minutes to flow out again. In this manner it ebbed and flowed successively 3 or 4 times during the space of a quarter of an hour, when all at once the water rushed from the east and west in opposite currents … in the form of a great wave.”
The water ebbed and flowed a while longer before settling back into normalcy. Loch Tay sits upon one fault line, the Loch Tay Fault, and very near another, the Highland Boundary Fault, whose murmurings could explain the sudden tides. Intriguingly, a report from 1789 tells how Loch Lomond experienced a similar phenomenon in 1755 at the very same time that a terrible earthquake levelled the Portuguese city of Lisbon.
Roxburgh Castle and the bovine assault force
Roxburgh Castle in the Borders is now nearly vanished, but was once one of the mightiest castles in the realm. During the Wars of Independence, dauntless James ‘the Black’ Douglas was tasked by Robert the Bruce with taking it and knew, having very limited resources, that he’d need to be fiendishly clever to even stand a chance. His plan? Have his sixty gruff warriors do their best cow impressions. A deadly stretch of open ground lay between the Scots and the castle with its English garrison, and a herd of black cattle grazed it. These weren’t the huge heifers we know today, but a much smaller, scrawnier breed. Douglas waited for the cover of night, ordered his men to drop down on all fours with their dark cloaks over their backs, and meander towards the castle gate. Whether they attempted to mimic the cattle’s mooing is not specifically mentioned in the chronicles, to my great dismay.
Perhaps the guards had drank a little too much that night, as the ploy worked without a hitch and Roxburgh was in Scottish hands by sunrise. Barbour’s The Bruce even mentions how one guard, upon seeing the larger-than-usual herd wandering about, remarked that the farmer responsible for them would regret not keeping them penned up if the Douglas made off with them!
The day the bay turned orange
Dunagoil Bay.
The spoils of shipwrecks are a boon to islanders, who have a talent for making thorough use of anything of value which washes ashore. Nineteenth century visitors to Barra, for example, often noted how women there were dressed in a patchwork of international finery thanks to the steady stream of wrecks off its shores. It must have made for quite the sight when, on the morning of 10 February 1900, a ship ran aground off the isle of Bute and spilled its 2,025 tons of Valencia oranges into Dunagoil Bay! The newspaper The Buteman reported that the bay had a layer of oranges several inches thick, and that locals were illegally rounding them up by the cartload. After a few weeks, however, the oranges began to rot, so many farmers – who were more than likely sick of the sight of them by then – began feeding them to their cattle. In the months that followed, milk from the parish of Kingarth in the south of Bute was said to have a citrusy tang.
The price of getting a head in life
At the height of the Viking Age, Sigurd, 1st Earl of Orkney, brought fire and sword to Scotland’s northern shores. In the course of his wrath, he made a bitter enemy in the form of Maelbrigte, mormaer of Moray. The north would never be big enough for the two of them, so in 892 AD they arranged to fight a decisive battle to the death with forty men on each side. Maelbrigte sported a distinct moniker, ‘the Tusk’, so-called because his bottom incisors sharply protruded from his lips. Let’s just say that Chekhov had his gun, and Maelbrigte had his tusk! Sigurd did not think the Scots could be trusted, so he pre-empted any cheating with a little of his own and mounted two men on each horse.
Even outnumbered two to one Maelbrigte’s men put up a good fight, but the result was inevitable. Maelbrigte fell, Sigurd chopped off his head, and rode off to celebrate his victory with his grim trophy strapped to his horse. There being no true roads, it was a bumpy ride. Along the way, Maelbrigte’s tusk secured its place in history and scratched Sigurd’s leg, so slightly that the Viking didn’t notice until it was too late. An infection set in, and within days the scourge of the north was dead – and, having met such an ignominious end, quite unlikely to enter Valhalla.
Disruptive Doric dogs
The archetype of a Reformation-era kirk as a severely strict, solemn place largely holds true, and one can imagine the consequences for anyone who disrupted the fire and brimstone of a kirk session. Some members of the congregation, however, proved easier to silence than others. An early 17th century entry in the Records of the Kirk-Session and Presbytery of Aberdeen laments how the inhabitants of the burgh “bring with them their dogges to the paroche kirk on the Lord’s day … whair throw and be the barking and perturbation of these dogges, the people are aftin withdrawn from hearing of God’s word, and often Divine service is interrupted.”
It was therefore issued that “no inhabitant whosoever within the same suffer thair dogges, whether they be mastives (mastiffs), curres (curs), or messens (lap dogs), to follow them heirefter to the paroche kirk of this burgh.”
Apply for funding to set up a project to promote Scotland’s worldwide reputation.
Applications have opened for a new pilot fund to support initiatives that promote Scotland’s international connections. The Scottish Connections Fund is open to bids from individuals and organisations in Scotland’s international diaspora and a total of £15,000 has been allocated for this year’s pilot, which will inform the development of an expanded fund in 2024. The fund follows a commitment in the government’s Scottish Connections Framework, which seeks to expand links and networks with Scottish people living elsewhere in the world, those with Scottish heritage, alumni of Scotland’s educational institutions, and people with professional, business, cultural or other links to Scotland.
External Affairs Secretary Angus Robertson said: “The Scottish Government has long believed that better engaging our diaspora – family and friends of Scotland globally – can not only benefit Scotland economically and enrich our culture, but also improve Scotland’s connections and reputation. We know that millions around the world cherish their connections with Scotland, and we are grateful for the work of people and organisations who do so much to strengthen these links – whether that is through the promotion of our culture and heritage or Scotland’s reputation as a place to live, work, visit, study, and do business. This fund aims to support their work to create more vibrant, visible and connected global Scottish diaspora, and I encourage anyone with an interest to submit an application by 8 November, 2023.”
The Scottish Connections Fund aims to help Scottish diaspora organisations and communities and their individual members further the aims of the Scottish Connections Framework. It promotes increased visibility or connectivity between Scottish diaspora communities outside Scotland, or with Scotland itself. The fund supports innovative initiatives “that bring together those with a connection to Scotland, promote Scotland’s reputation and interests, and build greater connections back to Scotland itself.” These include, but are not limited to:
The Mission of the Canadian Transportation Museum & Heritage Village (CTMHV) is “To preserve the past of Canada’s South for the education and interpretation of present and future generations”. And what could be more representative of Canada South’s history than a celebration of its Scottish and Celtic Heritage. Les McDonald, Chairman of the Board of Directors at CTMHV, is proud to announce that they will be adding the Kingsville Highland Games to the many events that they host on the Arner Townline. According to Heather Colautti, registrar of the Windsor Community Museum, “Scots have been coming to Windsor and Essex County, in large and in smaller numbers, since the days of the North American fur trade in the late 1600s and 1700s, right through to today and …. are one of the ethnic communities with the longest historic ties to Southwestern Ontario”. Reflecting the history of the county, Kingsville had hosted Highland Games for nearly 20 years until they disappeared in 1987.
A permanent home for this great event
The Highland Games, now to be known as the Kingsville-Essex Highland Games, returned in 2019 and more than 6,500 were in attendance for that occasion. The pandemic put paid to the games for a couple of years, but the committee has been working hard to bring the event back to its former numbers. In 2023 the Board at Jack Miner’s Migratory Bird Sanctuary graciously agreed to host the games at Ty Cobb Field when the Town of Kingsville decided to no longer host the event. The Committee will always be grateful for this gesture and are happy to report that more than 3,000 attendees enjoyed that location and all funds raised went to support programmes at the Sanctuary. However, the space available at Jack Miner’s proved to be too small to house the growth expected given the popularity of this event so, a new home had to be found for the future. “The Board of Directors at the Canadian Transportation Museum & Heritage Village have been overwhelmingly supportive of this initiative” says Doug Plumb, Chairman and Founder of the current Kingsville Highland Games, “Everyone is so enthusiastic about this addition to the portfolio of the CTMHV and we are delighted to finally have a permanent home for this great event”.
The Kingsville-Essex Highland Games will be held at the Canadian Transportation Museum & Heritage Village on June 22nd, 2024 at 6155 Arner Townline, Kingsville. For details see: www.facebook.com/kingsvillehighlandgames.